Advice on open hauler purchase

[redfirepearlgt]

I've been kicking this around for some time now, and started nosing around the net today for pricing on an 18' car hauler give or take 2 ft. Other than thinking a 7000GVWR is what I likely need to haul a 3700 lb car, I only know that they have axles, electric brakes, dovetails, ramps, a tongue, and they come either in wood or metal floor.

So what am I looking for as far as quality goes? Is there a standard on the plug that hooks to the truck? Is there a specification on ball hitch size that needs to be met for a 7000 GVWR trailer? OR do I even need a 7000 GVWR trailer? What about the braking system brand/standard? Single or dual axle braking? What type of axles, wheels, etc? What about strapping points? In essence what is universal, and standard and not some knock off POS crap that will fail 3.5 hours into a 7 hour one way trip?

I know I don't want to have to build and haul additional ramping to get the car on and off the trailer. SO how do I determine ramp length? Is a tilt bed worth the additional cash? Why would I want aluminum over painted steel or steel over treated wood floors?

I can spend $1750 or I can spend $8000+. So what is the best bang for the buck that will have parts available and easily interface with any hitch setup on a common pickup truck?

Used options that are still serviceable as far as parts and reasonable are part of the equation as well.

Questions, questions, questions...


Any assistance would be appreciated.

[cstreu1026]

Most will require a 2" or 2 5/8" ball. There are two standard plugs used and I think the difference is brakes vs no brakes on the trailer. Aluminum tends to be lighter and weathers much better but comes at a premium. What are you going to be to win with?

[redfirepearlgt]

Most will require a 2" or 2 5/8" ball. There are two standard plugs used and I think the difference is brakes vs no brakes on the trailer. Aluminum tends to be lighter and weathers much better but comes at a premium. What are you going to be to win with?

99 F150 supercab 4.6L AOD 4x2 or 2011 F150 5.0 6r80 4x4 king cab. Would use the latter for the 11 for longer hauls and the 99 for local. Would 18ft suffice? What ramp length would I need to getthe 2014 with 1.5" drop on the trailer without a bunch of makeshift ramping I have to haul along with? Thanks Cameron.

[IWRBB]

Make double damn sure you aren't buying something you can't legally tow. Do you understand all of the weight ratings of your tow vehicles?

You have to not exceed the GCWR when you add up the weight of the truck, cargo (including passengers), and the weight of the trailer. You also cannot exceed the payload capacity of the truck when you add up the weight of cargo and the tongue weight of the trailer. Payload capacity is calculated by taking the GVWR and subtracting the weight of the truck.

Most people don't give a shit and just hook it up and go, but if something happens, your insurance could bail on you if you are overweight.

As for the trailer- aluminum is what I'd recommend. No rust and lightweight. Get one with drop axles and the nicest on board stowable ramp setup you can afford.

Standard round 7 pin connector will power the electric brakes.

[cstreu1026]

Great advice. That's the thing people over look with new trucks. An f150 may be rated to tow 11-12k but most trailers that heavy put you way over the payload capacity. The tongue weight of our travel trailer is ~900 lbs and while it total weight is well within the capability of a 1/2 ton truck I would have to leave the family and our stuff at home.

[redfirepearlgt]

I rally appreciate the information. That's why I am asking so I am not broad sided with after thoughts after the sale and payload weight factors that could cost me for the rest of my life if in an accident. Thank you very much for bringing this up. I will check on the payload weight of both vehicles before I go further into this just to be safe.

[redfirepearlgt]

The actual number will be verified when I get home and open up the owners manual - but initial research on a 1999 F150 Supercab 4.6L 4R70 AOD and 3.55 rear axle allows 11500 GCWR with combined towing.

Truck curb weight - 4266 lb
Trailer curb weight - 2000 lb
Mustang GT - 3700 lb
Total = 9966 lb
+ 2 passengers @ 200 lb each estimated high

Still leaves room for 1134 lb of cargo to spare RIGHT? But then as you mentioned GVW on the truck including tongue weight is also a factor and cannot be exceeded (nor the GVW of the trailer itself) so......

If truck GVWR = 6300 lb (according to same website I referenced for GCWR),
and truck curb weight again is 4266 lb,
Total tongue weight, occupants, and cargo in truck cannot exceed 2034 lb. That then means a tongue weight of say 1200 lb leaves 834 pounds for passengers and any extra cargo. Two people again at 200 lb each allows 434 total remaining for tools, luggage, etc and still remain compliant in the truck.

I think I have the numbers correct on TOTAL GCWR which is the number I found that includes trailer capacity factored in as well.

[cstreu1026]

There should be a sticker inside of the door that gives the exact amount of cargo including tongue weight and passengers the truck can carry.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb162/cstreu1026/Dayton%20Stang%20Board/0B844DF3-099E-468C-A66D-16008A894245_zpsn5g3l35d.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/cstreu1026/media/Dayton%20Stang%20Board/0B844DF3-099E-468C-A66D-16008A894245_zpsn5g3l35d.jpg.html)

[redfirepearlgt]

Yeah there's one somewhere on the driver's side as I recall. I'm unable to get to the truck here at work unless on lunch which I can then clock out and go out there. So I just dug up stats on line to do an estimated. That and the owners manual (one of the few times it is actually usable LOL!) should get me the actual numbers or verify what I found on line.

I really do appreciate you guys taking the time to help out. It means a lot.

[IWRBB]

The actual number will be verified when I get home and open up the owners manual - but initial research on a 1999 F150 Supercab 4.6L 4R70 AOD and 3.55 rear axle allows 11500 GCWR with combined towing.

Truck curb weight - 4266 lb
Trailer curb weight - 2000 lb
Mustang GT - 3700 lb
Total = 9966 lb
+ 2 passengers @ 200 lb each estimated high

Still leaves room for 1134 lb of cargo to spare RIGHT?

Maybe, depends on the GVWR. You have 1134 lb of "capacity" left, which could be towing or payload capacity. However, it can only be payload if you don't exceed your GVWR. If you want to start getting down to it, there are actually ratings for the front axle and rear axle as seen in the pic above. Hard to really get that 100% right without scales though and they are pretty close typically.

[cstreu1026]

That sticker was a buddy's 2012 F150 FX4 with the 5.0. 1212 pounds isn't a lot of weight.

[redfirepearlgt]

Maybe, depends on the GVWR. You have 1134 lb of "capacity" left, which could be towing or payload capacity. However, it can only be payload if you don't exceed your GVWR. If you want to start getting down to it, there are actually ratings for the front axle and rear axle as seen in the pic above. Hard to really get that 100% right without scales though and they are pretty close typically.

I just re read your post and recalculates and corrected that. I realized that tow vehicle GVW cannot be exceeded either. IT really can become a balancing act to stay compliant. Thanks again for the help. I think I am calculating everything correctly of you re visit my edited reply above #7. Thanks

[IWRBB]

Your edited post looks correct. The only thing to be careful of is the true curb weight of the truck. The published curb weights are typically bare bones trucks. Options add weight fast. To be 100% sure of the curb weight, you should get it weighed with a full tank of gas.

[CNTLOSE]

Just so you know it is fairly easy to increase your payload capacity with an add-a-leaf. I did a 2" lift on the front with a 3/4" lift on the back to even everything out on our 2011 F150. It will raise the payload capacity by 950 lbs.

http://autospringcorp.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5&products_id=74

Edit...that link is for a 2004-2008 and but you can find your year on there.

[redfirepearlgt]

Thanks again guys. Appreciate all of the insight.

[IWRBB]

Just so you know it is fairly easy to increase your payload capacity with an add-a-leaf. I did a 2" lift on the front with a 3/4" lift on the back to even everything out on our 2011 F150. It will raise the payload capacity by 950 lbs.

http://autospringcorp.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5&products_id=74

Edit...that link is for a 2004-2008 and but you can find your year on there.

Nothing you can do to your truck raises the official payload capacity. Payload capacity is determined by the manufacturer. It is what it is, and nothing can change it. If you need more payload capacity, you need a different truck.

[CNTLOSE]

Nothing you can do to your truck raises the official payload capacity. Payload capacity is determined by the manufacturer. It is what it is, and nothing can change it. If you need more payload capacity, you need a different truck.

It may not be "official", but it raises it none the less.

[IWRBB]

Again- the GVWR cannot change, ever. Not with springs, airbags, fairy dust or angel farts.

It comes down to liability in an accident. If you get in a wreck while towing or hauling and kill/injure somebody- you can bet your ass the lawyers will be all over it if you are overloaded. Your insurance company will tell you to pound sand since your were operating your vehicle beyond it's legal limits- I'm sure it's in the fine print that you stay within the legal limits of the vehicle for them to cover your damages.

Now, if you want to put helper springs on there and overload your truck by a half ton- that's on you. I'd prefer you not be on the same roads as me, but I'm not going to bust your balls over it. I know it's done every day, all over the country. I also realize it's extremely rare that something would happen while you are overloaded, and even more rare that it would cause financial liability (i.e. your ins co saying FU you were overloaded), but it can and does happen. Weird, low probability things happen every day.

[2-Tone]

Check out smith trailers on 42 north of 275. Good bunch of guys and I think they have a shipment due in late this week with some new car haulers. They are a knowledgeable bunch and can show you several different options. Personally I think an aluminum open trailer is a waste of money. Whatever you decide make you have a good progressive brake controller that you are comfortable and confident operating.

[cstreu1026]

Again- the GVWR cannot change, ever. Not with springs, airbags, fairy dust or angel farts.

It comes down to liability in an accident. If you get in a wreck while towing or hauling and kill/injure somebody- you can bet your ass the lawyers will be all over it if you are overloaded. Your insurance company will tell you to pound sand since your were operating your vehicle beyond it's legal limits- I'm sure it's in the fine print that you stay within the legal limits of the vehicle for them to cover your damages.

Now, if you want to put helper springs on there and overload your truck by a half ton- that's on you. I'd prefer you not be on the same roads as me, but I'm not going to bust your balls over it. I know it's done every day, all over the country. I also realize it's extremely rare that something would happen while you are overloaded, and even more rare that it would cause financial liability (i.e. your ins co saying FU you were overloaded), but it can and does happen. Weird, low probability things happen every day.

I air on the side of overkill. I was glad I had the luxury of buying a truck to go with the trailer rather than the other way around. Now I just need a car trailer.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb162/cstreu1026/Dayton%20Stang%20Board/F916349D-2A3D-4DAD-866B-E783EA1DB02B_zpshsit6xh9.jpg (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/cstreu1026/media/Dayton%20Stang%20Board/F916349D-2A3D-4DAD-866B-E783EA1DB02B_zpshsit6xh9.jpg.html)

[IWRBB]

Check out smith trailers on 42 north of 275. Good bunch of guys and I think they have a shipment due in late this week with some new car haulers. They are a knowledgeable bunch and can show you several different options. Personally I think an aluminum open trailer is a waste of money. Whatever you decide make you have a good progressive brake controller that you are comfortable and confident operating.

They must sell a lot of trailers- I live nearby and see new trailers being delivered to them on a regular basis.

[2-Tone]

They must sell a lot of trailers- I live nearby and see new trailers being delivered to them on a regular basis.

The last time I asked Randy it was around 100-150 a month. They are always busy.

[redfirepearlgt]

Check out smith trailers on 42 north of 275. Good bunch of guys and I think they have a shipment due in late this week with some new car haulers. They are a knowledgeable bunch and can show you several different options. Personally I think an aluminum open trailer is a waste of money. Whatever you decide make you have a good progressive brake controller that you are comfortable and confident operating.

Thanks Tommy. Will give them a call. Aluminum is not an option. I want to retire someday so can't budget 6K for a trailer and 80K for a truck. So $3K for a trailer and a $7K truck that is paid off will have to do. LOL!

[redfirepearlgt]

I just got off the phone with Smith Trailer. Told the guy I was looking for an 18' trailer with a dovetail and ramp combination that would support a 1.5" lowered Mustang GT. He said he had nothing. Didn't seem to interested in wanting to explain why or provide any other solution. Pretty piss poor cocky salesmanship. I have no problem driving somewhere to get what I need.

What dovetail length and ramp length has worked without creating a bunch of fabricated additional ramping for anyone? Mine is only lowered 1.5" in the rear and about 1/2 " in the front due to the weight of the TVS unit.

[S281SC]

Its about the wheel wells. Your doors wont clear them.


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[S281SC]

That is why we have 4" of lumber stacked on our single car.


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[S281SC]

A flat bed or high deck is the best option for door clearance but then you need 15 feet of ramps. I am sure that trailer guy should have explained it to you. But if he gets as frustrated as the rest of us mustang guys... Most will fabricate some sort of removable wheel wells or raised trailer runners. It is definitely not straight forward, and he does not have anything "off the shelf" for you.


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[redfirepearlgt]

Gotcha. So even removable fenders won't allow the driver's side door to open?

I did just get off the phone with a very helpful guy who did not rush me one bit AND offers a respectable price on a Gatormade 18ft at A&R Trailer on Cheviot Road. Super helpful guy. Nothing on the lot currently but can order. I'm in no hurry so ordering is no big deal. And since there seems to be a no win situation in a hauler that will accommodate lower sitting cars I see no point in spending $4000 on something (even if its aluminum) if I still have to fabricate additional ramping and rework floor height to gain door clearance over wheel fenders. So the shopping begins.

[S281SC]

You may find a trailer with removable fenders that does work, but for my car which is lowered similarly it takes 3.5 inches and the fenders are only about 2" above the tires of the trailer. So we had to raise the car no matter what.


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[IWRBB]

Buy some axles and get it custom fabricated!

[redfirepearlgt]

Think I found a solution. Since no one is making anything short of a tilt trailer for $4400 clams that doesn't require rework and massaging to load a car, I have found several wood floor options under $2500.00 with dual brakes on Dexter axles with E-Z lube. Both options have wood floors. At least wood floors won't get scorching hot in the summer sun like diamond plate painted black. One is here local and the other is factory direct at a mfgr just south of Shepherdsville, KY. The guy down there will make 5ft ramps for an extra 20. Both units have dual brakes on dexter axles with ez-lube option. Both are 4" channel stock frames, 2 5/16 hitch, 18 ft (16+2ft dovetail), 15" trailer tires, blah, blah, blah.

With a wood floor I can modify the height to assure the doors clear the trailer fenders. And I have some ideas for a form of "Race ramp" that will simplify loading and unloading. Wood I can work with.

For my local truck I am going to go with a proportional brake controller that is a big step up from a standard digital style and provides better braking control. The other truck already has a Ford tow package on it with braking system if I recall correctly. My father just purchased it and its available for longer trips if i would need it since it has more HP and so forth. Only use it for long trips a few times a year, or until the day comes I can get into a larger HP used F150.

Thanks again for all of the help guys. Means a lot. I came into this thinking that surely they make a car hauler for all car types especially since so many Corvettes are hauled everywhere and sit so low to the ground. But then again a guy with a Corvette will have the big bucks to buy the $12000 trailer and the $80000.00 F350 Diesel t ohaul his $120,000 Z car won't he? So what was I thinking when I thought the same would be available in an economical option for us poor Mustang owners? Thanks again for the insight and help. Means a lot.

[leroy93lx]

We have and have had a lot of trailers over the years. One recommendation I would have is to go slightly longer. Like an 18 foot with 3 foot dove tail and 5 foot ramps. The longer dovetail and ramps have helped with low cars in the past. I would also try finding a company that offers 5200 or 7000 lbs axles on their car haulers. Just in case you ever needed to haul something heavier. I currently have a 23" foot Corn Pro pop up trailer for my Bobcat. I have hauled cars on it before but it is much better suited for trucks or vehicles that sit higher. The fender height is to much for a lot of cars unless you want to crawl in and out of the window. We use to have a gooseneck deck over popup trailer and it was great. I had to keep some stepped 2x10 ramps to keep low cars from rubbing but all in all it was great. Aluminum trailers are great for people using half ton trucks to pull them. I personally don't like them but I have two 1 ton diesels to drag my junk around with. Also...... Corvettes go into enclosed trailers. Upper epsilon vehicle goes in the upper epsilon trailer! Places to hang the leather jacket and driving gloves too..... Mopars are essentially the same!

[redfirepearlgt]

Crackin me up Lee! BTW That's MATCHING jacket and leather gloves LOL! how you doing? Hope everyone is fine. Thanks for the information. So you suggest essentially a twenty foot with a three foot dove tail? I will be pulling with a half ton but don't have the cabbage to go aluminum though they are 500 lb lighter from what I have found. 7000 GVW will do fine because i plan on using it for nothing heavier than the Mustang. Most of the units I have looked at are 1900-2000 curb weight. I want peace of mind having one but sure don't want to tie a bunch of money up in it knowing it won't get used but maybe 5-10 times a season. I never plan to use it for the local track since I like to drive in and make passes and leave. Where I would keep it stored (no room at my place to safely store it) is closer to the track than my house anyway.

[92sc4v]

Try DK trailer sales in Manchester they have
A 18ft steel deck car trailer 5in c channel frame
Brakes on both axles for $2,300 and wood deck
For $2,000

[redfirepearlgt]

^^ LIKE! WILL DO!

[NXcoupe]

I bought a challenger brand car hauler and made the mistake of selling it and now I will be in the market again soon. I bought mine at tegtmeyer, not recommended. Get brakes on both axles and get a removable driver's fender and D rings welded in. Buy a decent affordable winch and u are done. 18 to 20 ft is perfect. Shorter is bad nkay?

[redfirepearlgt]

Thanks.

[NXcoupe]

If you go to whoever makes the challenger model trailer's site, they show a viper on the trailer with the trailer fender removed and the door open(at least they did at one point, haven't been on in a long while). I never had an issue with mine loading or unloading any of my cars and getting the door open. When we talked you mentioned the longer ramps as an option and I think that is a great idea. I'm going this route again soon, probably just gonna bite the bullet and get a new one if I can't find a good used option out there.

[NXcoupe]

Kind of a long winded video but here is an example of some of the higher end ones, but they don't demonstrate the removable fender for some reason.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MlQeSJv_nxk

[NXcoupe]

Link to a dealer you can call and ask who makes it and more details. Pics of the challenger series, etc with low rider cars on them, lots of info. http://customtrailersalesinc.com/challenger-car-hauler/

[redfirepearlgt]

thanks

[mustangboy]

Out of curiosity what is the height of the bottom of your door?

[mustangboy]

I have a sure trac that is 20ft (16+4) and fender height is 9". Measured my e36 m3 and the lowest point on the door is 10.5" and it sits pretty damn low. I have a hard time imagining your doors are much lower 10". Not selling mine but sound like it may be the perfect trailer for you

[mustangboy]

http://www.equipmenttraderonline.com/Car-Hauler-For-Sale/search-results?make=SURE--TRAC|200128440,|&category=Car+Hauler|2006320

Here is a link to some new ones for sale. Mine does not have it but new ones look to have removeable fenders as well.

[redfirepearlgt]

I have a sure trac that is 20ft (16+4) and fender height is 9". Measured my e36 m3 and the lowest point on the door is 10.5" and it sits pretty damn low. I have a hard time imagining your doors are much lower 10". Not selling mine but sound like it may be the perfect trailer for you

Loaded the car on a friends trailer for a dry fit and found the doors clear with zero issue. You are correct.

[redfirepearlgt]

Out of curiosity what is the height of the bottom of your door?

To be perfectly honest I have been meaning to measure that but when I get home and finish the chores I don't remember to do that until I awake at 2:00 am to go pee! LOL!

[redfirepearlgt]

Thanks for the listing Kenny. I got a quote locally on a Sure Trac including everything needed to make it work with the truck. $3300 out the door. I can save some money picking up a Class 3,4,5 hitch and the brake controller myself. Easy install. I just need to run the brake wire for the round 7. Already have flat 4 factory OEM at the back bumper.