welding axle tubes ...

[redfirepearlgt]

At what point does it become a concern to weld the axle tubes and/or reinforce the rear axletubes with the use of something like a CHE axle brace shown in the attaches link?

https://www.cheperformance.com/collections/2011-2014-chassis-and-suspension-bracing/products/che9l

I am now cutting pretty solid and consistent 1.6x 60's. Since I don't trailer the car I'd rather spend a little money to minimize rear end damage if I am anywhere near doing that on DR's running low 1.6's or possible high 1.5's when the air improves this fall.

If welding axle tubes is a strong advisory at this point who do I turn to that will do the job properly and in a timely manner?

Thanks.

[IWRBB]

Bare GT500 axle housing, pre-welded from Ford.

http://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__/Axle-housing/52716135/DR3Z4010A.html

Swap your shit over and be done.

[chad393na]

I have the CHE brace in mine, definately a beefy piece of equiptment!

[draggin50]

Rob Lewis at Rogue Race Cars did mine. He does good work!

[redfirepearlgt]

Thanks for the feedback. Will follow up on all of this. Great help.

[S281SC]

Mine will just be welded. Matt, my brother, had mike bell weld his and then added a swarr bar.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/swarr-bar-88-rear-2005.html

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[S281SC]

His 60' seems to always be a little better than mine even with everything else the same. So i have to think the stiffer rear axle assembly is helping that.


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[98stangv6]

Tin Soldier Racecars in NKY took care of mine. Great shop with great guys.

[Stangman]

Yep. And you can't just MIG them either. They require a nickel alloy filler rod if I'm not mistaken... because that bonds the cast iron housing to the steel tubes. Both of which have to be really hot to get anything to stick to them, and is best done on a jig, to maintain axle housing/tube straightness.

[2-Tone]

I don't think it's a necessity with an auto car unless you plan on going a lot faster in the future. Adam did mine on the 03. He has the jig.

[IWRBB]

Yep. And you can't just MIG them either. They require a nickel alloy filler rod if I'm not mistaken... because that bonds the cast iron housing to the steel tubes. Both of which have to be really hot to get anything to stick to them, and is best done on a jig, to maintain axle housing/tube straightness.

Which is why I recommend just buying a GT500 housing that is done by the factory. He knows it's done right.

[redfirepearlgt]

I don't think it's a necessity with an auto car unless you plan on going a lot faster in the future. Adam did mine on the 03. He has the jig.

I'll check with him as well. So far having it done by a well known pro with a great history in the sport is just a few pennys more than doing a GT500 axle housing swap in the side yard. Add the lube change and its a wash not including my labor. If you are right Tommy then I will just pick up the CHE axle brace, because I'm not looking to have to become NHRA licensed. Ultimate goal is 10.50's safely on pump gas. YEAH, YEAH, YEAH I know I could get there quicker on corn, but again its not just a local driver car for cruise ins and TT nights. Its a car I want to drive on a vacation if I choose to do so and not have to stop every 50 miles for Corn. Maybe when I am at that point in my life where I have to stop every 50 miles to pee I will then look into it. LOL! BUT THAT'S ANOTHER THREAD. I know Adam is VERY meticulous. Thanks.

[2-Tone]

Come on guy. I have a cruising range of 110 miles. Currently averaging 10 mpg. LOL
Seriously e85 sucks if you want to go on a road trip. I guess you could tow an auxiliary tank or something.

You will get your 10.50 on 93. It will just take a little more time. Hell you already ran a 10.9 on a crap track in crap weather.

Oh and if you decide to get rid of those 17" dr I would buy them back minus what you've used.

[redfirepearlgt]

In another five ears I won;t be able to drive 100 miles without having to pee. So I;ll make the change then! LOL!

The air turned cool the other night. Temps dropped 15 degrees and the cars all ran much batter. Or it was the 1.5 degree of timing added to the bottom end ofhte tune that got it there or both.

The DR's are doing fine. I like them. The old pair I gave to mustang jon for swapping them out. If you are only looking for street driving you could probably buy those off of him. They are 295/45/17's. He's at Tire Discounters on Galbraith just off I-75 if you are interested and I assume he may still have them.

And looks like Adam is going weld the axles for me. He's a little more than Rogue but he's much closer and can get it done in a day and had no problems with me helping pull the rear end and put it back in. Still a nice deal.

[2-Tone]

I'm glad you're liking them more . I really want a 17" et street or Hoosier qtp but they don't exist as far as I know. I wouldnt mind trying your 17s but they would probably wheel hop with my IRS anyway. I really hate that feeling and it's so hard on the whole car.

[redfirepearlgt]

you'repretty much stuck with MT ET R series for a 17. M/H I think might have an option.