Hot Water Heater Issues

[5.0calypso93lx]

After not having any hot water for the second morning in a row, it finally hit me that maybe my hot water heater wasn't working :lol:

To give some background, it's a 40 gallon gas water heater. House was built in 2005, 3 of those years vacant with all the plumbing having been winterized. Not exactly sure on the brand, I will find that out after I get off work today. It has worked fine for the past 4 months up until two days ago.

For the quick minute I had to check it out this morning, I pulled the cover off the bottom of the unit and didn't see any flame lit. Should I actually visually see a flame through that cover?

I'm going to verify that all the fuses are on when I get home as I didn't think of that till just now.

Any ideas as far as testing the unit to see what the deal is?

[Blackout]

If its gas then you should see the be able to see the pilot light.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Maybe I just need to re-light the pilot light then. I'm 100% sure it's a gas unit and I'm 100% sure I did NOT see a flame when I looked underneath the unit after removing the cover lol.

[Foxxx5oh]

i know your issue....if the water is already hot, it wont need to be heated, so the water heater is takin a break :P lol i couldnt resist! :D

[Foxxx5oh]

but on a serious note, get some fans down there for a couple hours before you go to light the pilot, there's no way of telling how long it has been out or how much gas seeped out and is chillin close to the floor just waiting for a spark...

[Dirtyd0g]

if it is a whirlpool heater you are in for lots of fun.

[5.0calypso93lx]

but on a serious note, get some fans down there for a couple hours before you go to light the pilot, there's no way of telling how long it has been out or how much gas seeped out and is chillin close to the floor just waiting for a spark...

Yea, this is one thing I was thinking about. I was hoping it had some type of automatic shut-off since it's a newer unit, but I'm not sure on that. I'm almost positive it is not a whirlpool.

[Dirtyd0g]

That is a good thing. It took me years of calling and complaining to get my whirlpool replaced. My next step was driving it to johnson city tenn in my truck. Taking nothing more than some vaseline in case it gave resistance.
Alan

[Jeff88coupe]

but on a serious note, get some fans down there for a couple hours before you go to light the pilot, there's no way of telling how long it has been out or how much gas seeped out and is chillin close to the floor just waiting for a spark...


The thermocouple may have gone out on it. It's sensor is stuck in the pilot flame (or very close to it) has to see heat for it not kick off the gas valve. This is a saftey so that gas can't just flow if the pilot light/burner are off or out.

[5.0calypso93lx]

The thermocouple may have gone out on it. It's sensor is stuck in the pilot flame (or very close to it) has to see heat for it not kick off the gas valve. This is a saftey so that gas can't just flow if the pilot light/burner are off or out.

I was thinking there was some type of safety on it so it wouldn't just fill the basement up with gas. Do all water heaters have these or how recently did this come into play?

[DSSKing68]

I was thinking there was some type of safety on it so it wouldn't just fill the basement up with gas. Do all water heaters have these or how recently did this come into play?

They have been like that for a long time...that is why when you light the pilot you have to hold it for a minute or so until the thermocouple heats up.

I am guessing with all of the weather we have been having the wind is blowing out your pilot light, probably caused by a weak pilot to start with.

[Mista Bone]

but on a serious note, get some fans down there for a couple hours before you go to light the pilot, there's no way of telling how long it has been out or how much gas seeped out and is chillin close to the floor just waiting for a spark...

A) you'd smell the sulfer that is added as an odorant
B) propane sinks, nat. gas rises.

I'm betting the thermocouple is bad if it is gas and not electronic ignition.

['92Stang]

A)

I'm betting the thermocouple is bad if it is gas and not electronic ignition.

THIS.....Actually did HVAC for a few years, and this was a very common occurence.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Turned out to be nothing :confused:

Just followed the instructions on the tank and basically just reset all the power to the unit and it fired right back up?? Can't complain I guess.

[Mista Bone]

THIS.....Actually did HVAC for a few years, and this was a very common occurence.

Dad worked for CG&E, he ALWAYS had a TC on him, every car we owned had one in the glovebox, plus 2-3 boxes of matches.

[Racin Jason]

if this problem occurs again then it might be you dont have enough air flow for it to breathe. my father-in law had this problem in a closet..had to cut a vent in the door. cool now

[Black Horse]

The problem is you have a HOT water heater....may you need to adjust it to heat cold water!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Yea I'm retarded....

[5.0calypso93lx]

So to bump this back up, I have no hot water at all now and resetting everything is not working either.

It is a Rheem unit and it IS electronic ignition. I've had to reset the damn thing about 10 times in the past 6 months. When I say reset, I just followed the instructions on the label at the bottom of the heater. It had me shut the power off to the unit, flip this little switch on the controller to off (you just push down on the top of this lever and it is spring loaded so it automatically goes to off when pressed), wait 5 minutes, flip the little switch back to on and turn the power back on to the heater. When I did this, after a few seconds I would hear the little clicking noise of the igniter and then I would hear the flame light and it would starting heating again.

As of yesterday, I tried to reset it and I don't hear any clicking at all now.

There is a pump on top of the actual reservoir and when I turn the power back on, this pump turns over for a few seconds then shuts off. It repeats that about 5 times then just quits trying. It looks like the heater in the top picture on this page, with the black housing'd circular pump mounted on top of the reservoir itself:

http://www.tdhmechanical.com/products/water-heaters.asp

Any ideas? I'll try and get video of everything tonight.

I've been reading this: http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/wh_thermocouple_5.htm

But since I don't have any clicking at all now it sounds to me like the ignitor is bad?

[Blowpastyou]

It's a powervent if it has an electronic ignition. Does it vent with PVC? If so plan on a new one. Gas valves can be 600+ for a p/v, not including labor

[5.0calypso93lx]

It's a powervent if it has an electronic ignition. Does it vent with PVC? If so plan on a new one. Gas valves can be 600+ for a p/v, not including labor

I'll have to get back to you on the PVC vent. And a big FML if that's what it's going to cost.

Edit: After a quick search, my water heater isn't anywhere near as baller as what I found when I google'd Rheem powervent. Keep in mind, this is a freedom homes built house so I'm sure it's some builders grade cheapo unit. As far as I can tell it's the original unit. It's 6 years old.

[Blowpastyou]

Post a pic or model#

[5.0calypso93lx]

Post a pic or model#

Will when I get home tonight. I'm going to try and video the whole thing so I can show exactly what it is / isn't doing. Thanks for the help.

[SMOKE]

Water heaters are not that expensive.... Go buy a new one!!!! :lol:

[5.0calypso93lx]

Post a pic or model#

FML, it is a powervent...

It's a Rheem Powervent 2:

Serial No. RHLN 1005102024 MFG Date 10/2005

Model No. 41VRP40N

Will have pics up in a sec.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_2353.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_2352.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_2350.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Another thing I just noticed. The flashing light on the control box at the very bottom of the heater is what I would say flashing fast. That troubleshooting code says to "call for heat". ??

Just ran my serial number on their website and my water heater is under warrany until October of this year. Hmmmmm

[Blowpastyou]

Didnt you just buy your house? The warranty is not transferrable. Home warranty?

[Blowpastyou]

Might be able to slide one over on them. Call Rheem and try to get them to warranty it. Dont tell them your not the original builder of the house. You'll have to pay for installation but it will be cheaper than spending 699-999 on a heater plus 249-349 plus the permit, plus a pan.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Might be able to slide one over on them. Call Rheem and try to get them to warranty it. Dont tell them your not the original builder of the house. You'll have to pay for installation but it will be cheaper than spending 699-999 on a heater plus 249-349 plus the permit, plus a pan.

Eddie, I went to their website and plugged in my serial number and doing that actually let me to their tech page which had a techline that I called last night.

I am actually getting 4 flashes from the light on the controller. I can't remember exactly what that meant but something about flow. The tech guy had me remove the PVC pipe from the pump on top and told me to turn the unit on to see what would happen. The pump kicked on and started to spurt water out of the top a bit so I turned it back off really quick. The guy told me to pull the pump up top off and clean it out. I am going to do that tonight.

What I don't understand is what would taking the PVC pipe off and turning the whole unit on and have water come out the pump tell the tech guy?

[Blowpastyou]

Where the PVC comes out of the heater at the rubber coupling there should be condensation drain. If it's not hooked up water can pool up in the motor and make it mess up. It gets water in the PVC because your cooling hot air quickly and that makes moisture. Should be 3/8 hose. Hope that's the problem.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Where the PVC comes out of the heater at the rubber coupling there should be condensation drain. If it's not hooked up water can pool up in the motor and make it mess up. It gets water in the PVC because your cooling hot air quickly and that makes moisture. Should be 3/8 hose. Hope that's the problem.

I do not have a condensation drain. So the fact that water is coming out of the motor is telling me that condensation is built up there? When I turn it on, nothing should have come out? It seemed like a pretty good amount when I first fired it up.

[Blowpastyou]

That's a problem. If there is no water on the ground... Definitely a problem.

[5.0calypso93lx]

That's a problem. If there is no water on the ground... Definitely a problem.

There is a drain. It's just not coming from the blower vent up top. You can see the drain in the first and second pictures.

[Blowpastyou]

That's not a drain the 3/4 copper your referring to is from the t&p valve. "Thermal and pressure relief" if the Heater gets too hot or has too much pressure it pushes the spring open instead of rupturing the tank. There should be be a small nipple near the top of the motor by the PVC.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I'll check for that when I get home tonight, thanks again!!

[5.0calypso93lx]

That turned out to be all it was. There were 4 philips screws holding the vent onto the water heater and i just pulled it off, un-did one connection and dumped the water out. There was quite a bit in there. I put it back on, reset everything and it fired right up!


That's not a drain the 3/4 copper your referring to is from the t&p valve. "Thermal and pressure relief" if the Heater gets too hot or has too much pressure it pushes the spring open instead of rupturing the tank. There should be be a small nipple near the top of the motor by the PVC.

I looked everywhere on the vent and I don't see a drain anywhere. Maybe I just overlooked it. Either way, I really appreciate your help!! It's nice to have hot water again...