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Starting/running problem [Archive] - StangBangerz Forums

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Scott85
03-30-2011, 09:04 PM
I just bought an 87 GT with 65K on it (I'm new to Mustangs) . A couple of days ago , I had the engine cleaned/detailed. It ran fine for about an hour after the cleaning . As I was driving it though , in any gear while accelerating, the car would hesitate and miss badly. I got it home and let it sit for a day, figuring water had gotten somewhere it shouldn't be . It started the next day, but still has the same issue. I tried starting it last night and it would take about 5 cranks , barely start but wouldn't stay running . I pulled the distributer "protector" off and noticed the wires are the original wires and in pretty bad shape. I ordered a Jegs cap/rotor & new wires, but I'm still having the same issue even after putting the new parts on. The Jegs cap doesn't seem to fit as snug as the original cap though, is this normal? Theres a bit of play if you try and move it . HELP! TIA

Rick93coupe
03-30-2011, 09:22 PM
Could be a lot of things, does it have a fuel pressure gauge on it? Things to check would be the fuel pressure regulator. With the car running, pull the vacuum line off of it and see if fuel runs out of it, that would mean the diaphragm is torn. Could be a weak coil or a bad TFI module too.

Did all the trouble start after the wash?

Kevin1989
03-30-2011, 09:24 PM
my car did this a while back, after i washed it.. i ended up frying my ignition box, would run like absolute dog shit, do you have and aftermarket ignition?

Scott85
03-30-2011, 09:29 PM
It doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge . Car is bone stock, BTW. The car won't stay running to check the regulator. TFI module ? Car ran perfect before the wash. Stock ignition.

Kevin1989
03-30-2011, 09:32 PM
The TFI modual is the plug on the distributor. its about 45 bucks if i remember correctly.

Kevin1989
03-30-2011, 09:36 PM
how does it die after you start it? like shutter off of just stop.

Rick93coupe
03-30-2011, 09:36 PM
TFI= Thick Film Ignition module.

Try and borrow one from a friend before you buy one.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1987-Ford-Mustang/Ignition-Control-Module/_/N-iil82Z9ci7x?filterByKeyWord=thick+film+ignition+mo dule&fromString=search

It bolts to the distributor and has a plug on the end of it. If you were power washing under the hood you want to avoid that area.

I'm not saying that is your problem but it's one of the things on these cars that act up from time to time.

Scott85
03-30-2011, 09:41 PM
When/if it starts, it just dies right away. Even if I give it gas to try and keep it running, it just dies. Is there a way to test to see if the TFI is bad ?

Kevin1989
03-30-2011, 09:51 PM
i believe i read somewhere you can get them tested. you will need a TFI tool though to take the bolts off

Rick93coupe
03-30-2011, 10:52 PM
Try this also, cycle the key forward 3-4 times without trying to start the car. That will prime the pump each time, just listen for the pump to stop running and cycle it again. On the fifth try, see if it will start.

BlazinEagle
03-30-2011, 11:36 PM
You do not need a tfi tool to take it off...just a small long socket (not sure the exact size) My mechanics set from sears had one that fit perfectly. It does not sound like the tfi module if it is starting every once in awhile though.

jccox77
03-31-2011, 07:23 AM
where are u located have a few tfi modules u can try if u are close enough to come get them

Kevin1989
03-31-2011, 08:25 AM
i think its 5.5 mm and it has to be like a thin wall

Scott85
03-31-2011, 08:34 AM
Try this also, cycle the key forward 3-4 times without trying to start the car. That will prime the pump each time, just listen for the pump to stop running and cycle it again. On the fifth try, see if it will start.

Didn't work. Just cranks really slowly now.

I'm in Sharonville, I could get one this weekend.

Black Horse
03-31-2011, 08:47 AM
I had an Escort that would run for 6 minutes then die all due to the TFI.

But a word of caution: Sometimes when a TFI craps out it can take the hall-effect sensor out with it (this is the sensor mounted in the distributor) or when the hall-effect craps out it can take out the TFI. As a rule I always suggest changing both (you'll have to pull the distributor and take it apart to get to the hall-effect - be sure to mark everything so you don't go back in 180 degrees out).

Good luck!

Rick93coupe
03-31-2011, 08:57 AM
Didn't work. Just cranks really slowly now.

Ok, was just trying to rule out the fuel filter / fuel pump. Throw a charger on it so it's up to the task of cranking over the engine. Sounds like you have a weak battery also.

facemelter71
03-31-2011, 10:33 AM
Thats how our car wash guys have killed about 18 cars. Pressure washing the engine bay is a bad idea.

The TFI module is held onto the Dizzy with two 5.5mm bolts. The piece that Black Horse is talking about is called the PIP,or Profile Ignition Pickup. That is the hall affect sensor under the rotor button that the tone ring or metal window ring runs through.

Although to get to the PIP you have to press the gear off of the end of the Dizzy,it really isnt that hard to replace. And the PIP is pretty cheap from the parts store.

Pitbull1052
03-31-2011, 10:52 AM
Just for my own personal knowledge if the TFI was bad would it even get spark at all? I'm asking as I don't know, but If it wouldnt get spark with a bad TFI why not just check for spark at a plug rather than taking all of that off. I had a similar issue once, checked everything ign module, you name it then I noticed my fuel pump wasnt kicking on at the acc position ended up being my computer.......

Scott85
03-31-2011, 07:02 PM
Ok, thanks for all the help, it was the TFI . The problem is that some of the prongs got stuck in the dist and I had to pull the dist to get them out . Now the idle is a little erratic and it almost wants to die when idling. There are marks on the dist where it looks like someone has timed it , or possibly factory markings????? Is there anyone in the tricounty mall area that could time this for me ? I'll pay you in cash, beer whatever . The last time I had ever timed a car was in HS auto class and that was back in the late 80's. call/text 513-600-9025 . Again , thanks for all the help.

SN95N/A
03-31-2011, 07:15 PM
Good point on that I was jus driving down 125 one day jus cruisin along and the PIP went out in my car it would start after it sat for a min. Get prolly half mile down the road and it just shut off,ran horrible and missed really bad so that could possibly be the issue.good luck!

Rick93coupe
03-31-2011, 10:34 PM
Glad you got it figured out. Those TFI's do some strange shit. I'm glad I don't have to deal with them anymore!

Rick93coupe
03-31-2011, 10:36 PM
Just for my own personal knowledge if the TFI was bad would it even get spark at all? I'm asking as I don't know, but If it wouldnt get spark with a bad TFI why not just check for spark at a plug rather than taking all of that off. I had a similar issue once, checked everything ign module, you name it then I noticed my fuel pump wasnt kicking on at the acc position ended up being my computer.......

I've had that same thing happen, sensor in dizzy went bad on one occasion and on another the computer was bad, luckily I had been around them long enough to know how to start trble shooting it.

Kevin1989
03-31-2011, 11:45 PM
Ok, thanks for all the help, it was the TFI . The problem is that some of the prongs got stuck in the dist and I had to pull the dist to get them out . Now the idle is a little erratic and it almost wants to die when idling. There are marks on the dist where it looks like someone has timed it , or possibly factory markings????? Is there anyone in the tricounty mall area that could time this for me ? I'll pay you in cash, beer whatever . The last time I had ever timed a car was in HS auto class and that was back in the late 80's. call/text 513-600-9025 . Again , thanks for all the help.

i have a timing light your more than welcome to use, or i can maybe swing by there to help a banger out.