View Full Version : Lunati Cam help!
89johnny
02-28-2011, 12:13 AM
I need some help reguarding the Lunati cam i was given, i just want to know if i can throw it in and roll or if theyre is more needed. Here is my info:
Lunati Bracket Master 2
Duration: 292/292
gross valve lift: .512/.512
lsa: 110
Any help would be much appreciated!
Gearhead
02-28-2011, 07:43 AM
FYI.. I think that's a flat tappet hydraulic if i remember correctly.....can't use roller lifters....
85_SS_302_Coupe
02-28-2011, 09:12 AM
You're fine with the lift, but that's a lot of duration...is that the advertised duration or @.050? Duration is where your piston to valve clearance issues come from.
NXcoupe
02-28-2011, 11:08 AM
I need some help reguarding the Lunati cam i was given, i just want to know if i can throw it in and roll or if theyre is more needed. Here is my info:
Lunati Bracket Master 2
Duration: 292/292
gross valve lift: .512/.512
lsa: 110
Any help would be much appreciated!
We need the duration at .050 to help you out. If it's a flat tappet cam, may as well just hold off till you get a roller to put in it.
Timido
02-28-2011, 03:58 PM
You're fine with the lift, but that's a lot of duration...is that the advertised duration or @.050? Duration is where your piston to valve clearance issues come from.
Bingo. Always check pistion to valve clearance with a checker spring and a dial indicator or clay or both.
Timido
02-28-2011, 04:28 PM
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2187
Looks like 230/230 @50
85_SS_302_Coupe
02-28-2011, 04:58 PM
I've ran an X303 on stock pistons, which is 224 @.050, and a lot of guys run the Stage 1 which is 221/225 @.050. I would definitely check clearance on it before i tried to start it up.
89johnny
02-28-2011, 06:48 PM
The help is much appreciated thank you very much!
89johnny
03-01-2011, 05:39 PM
Not to sound like a total newb, but in the event the valves hit the pistons what would be my next move?
89johnny
03-01-2011, 05:40 PM
Sorry im really new to v8 engine work.
85_SS_302_Coupe
03-01-2011, 07:21 PM
Well, you can look into notching the pistons, which is a big pain in the ass, or replace the pistons which can get expensive, or find another cam. In some cases you can advance/retard the cam timing one way or another and gain enough clearance, but you won't know that until the cam is installed and you try it out.
Squale iii
03-01-2011, 07:35 PM
When we replaced the heads on my 5.0 we found an X-303 in it. It ran fine with it, but we didn't want to risk P2VC issues with new heads so we threw an E-303 back in. Your cheapest route is probably going to be buying a new cam unless you know how (or know someone who can do it) to notch pistons while they're in the engine.
89johnny
03-01-2011, 11:50 PM
Okay. I guess the first thing i should do is find one of my dads buddys who knows how to test to see if the valves clear before i go looking for new things! Like i said i got it for totally free from a good buddy after it sat around his shop for years. so im not out anything.
Timido
03-02-2011, 12:20 PM
That's why its tough to say on some cams you have clearance issues. You could put the same cam in and advances or retard the cam timing with an adjustable timing chain set just a couple of degrees and you could have problems where you would not if the cam timing was straight up
85_SS_302_Coupe
03-02-2011, 05:43 PM
1. Install the cam
2. Put a layer of pink play dough across the face of the piston covering the valve reliefs (no idea why pink, that's just what i've always heard...i've also heard of using tootsie rolls)
3. Put a head on and torque it down, install pushrods/lifters/rockers for the cylinder you put the clay on
4. Turn the engine over by hand VERY SLOWLY and gently. You don't want to force the engine to turn over in case the valve does hit. If you feel ANY resistance, it's probably hitting. The engine should be fairly easy to turn over with a head being off the other side. Make sure your spark plugs are out of the head you installed..that'll make turning it over a little easier.
5. If you were able to turn the engine completely over so that both intake and exhaust valve went through their full motion, remove the head and look at the play dough. At this point you'll know if you have clearance to spare or if you're in trouble. You can measure the thickness of the dough at the point where the valves pressed into it and that will give you an idea of how much room you have to spare (in case you wanted a bigger cam in the future). If it looks like the valves cut clean through the dough...i wouldn't run that cam.
I'm by no means an expert on any of this, but this is how we did my X303 when it went in.
89johnny
03-02-2011, 07:57 PM
Cool, thanks your the man!
85_SS_302_Coupe
03-02-2011, 08:03 PM
If the valve hits the head it'll stop you from turning the engine over. Just keep that in mind when you're turning it over...it doesn't take much to bend a valve. Someone can chime in on what a safe amount of clearance is...i'm really not sure. I think i had something like 1/8 inch of clearance on mine. You wanna lay down about a quarter inch thick layer of clay and press it into the valve reliefs.
89johnny
03-02-2011, 08:06 PM
Sweet, im gonna find a set of gt40p heads before i put the cam in so i can do this all at once. I really appreciate all this help!
85_SS_302_Coupe
03-02-2011, 09:05 PM
Oh crap one thing i forgot, you really need to have a solid lifter to do this, otherwise the pressure of the valve spring will collapse the lifter since it isn't pumped up with oil.
You can make a solid lifter but you'll have to search the net for info on how to do that. We already had one made when i did mine.
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