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2 different boost readings? (a real headscratcher...) [Archive] - StangBangerz Forums

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apollo
08-14-2010, 04:51 PM
Alright, so I recently installed one of Autometer's fancy electrical boost gauges on my car (the one that comes with a MAP sensor). At full throttle, it shows 11psi. Okay, fine. However, I also have an Anderson Ford Motorsport PMS which also has a MAP sensor (the exact same GM-type 3 bar MAP sensor as the Autometer uses) and it only shows 9psi. In addition, the readings at idle and low speed are considerably different between the two.

The problem here is obvious, in that the PMS is only tuning the fuel, timing, etc. for 9 lbs of boost when there is actually (we'll assume the Autometer is correct...) 11.

So I thought a simple test would be to swap out the MAP sensors, since they are again, the exact same GM 3 bar style. So I did that... and got the exact same readings as before. I tested the vacuum line going to the PMS MAP to make sure it didn't have any leaks, and it did not.

So I've swapped the MAPs back to their original places, and now the Autometer seems to be really messed up. It reads around 0 at idle, while the PMS reads about 14 in. of vacuum, which is about where it was before. ??? Am I missing something really stupid here? I remember something in the PMS instructions saying that they wanted you to keep the MAP located as close as possible to the PMS itself, so I do have a fairly long vacuum line feeding it, but I don't see how that should make any difference. Both vacuum lines (PMS and Autometer) originate at the intake manifold... of the same engine... ha yeah I dunno. :confused:

Gearhead559
08-15-2010, 07:11 PM
sounds like they are not reading from the same source. this is why i recommend a boost log manifold to source each map/vacuum port from.

apollo
08-16-2010, 09:18 PM
I called Autometer today, and their tech suggested testing it by running a wire directly from the positive battery terminal to the gauge. Sure enough, with the test lead giving it "full" power, the Autometer read the same as the PMS (which I will now assume is correct... I know I hate assuming things but we'll call it a semi-educated assumption...:rolleyes:). The Autometer even operated properly after I took the lead wire off... until I shut the car off and started it up again a little later...

But anyway, it looks like I just need to find a different source to power my boost gauge (I just spliced into the same source I was using for my Fuel Pressure gauge, but apparently that ain't workin out). Time to break out the EVTM... unless anybody has any good tips for wires that remain hot during both Crank AND Run...

A05C
09-03-2010, 12:05 AM
Try using just a standard mechanical gauge. Make sure it says 0 with the engine off. Seen a lot of gauges that are misscalibrated from right out of the box

My $.02