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Feeler/Dilema 97 Cobra 500 hp vortech intercooled, etc etc [Archive] - StangBangerz Forums

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Bayman
07-15-2010, 08:29 PM
Heres what Im looking at.
Heard a tick from the drivers side head during acceleration..
Checked the oil- about 2 quarts low.
Put the scope on it, and to me it all sounded in the upper end. like a camshaft bearing.

Dropped the car off at Middletown Ford to confirm my suspicion and first thing they said " how do you get this thing in reverse?" ( ive got the T-56 6 speed iin it, but my shift knob is labeled correctly to match)

Should have known right then and there it was going to be a mistake.
Two hours later they called and said I need a new long block because of bad wrist pin in the # 3 and 4 cylinders..
If they were able to break that engine down and figure that, in two hours, they should be working for NASCAR.
When I asked why I just dont get mine rebuilt, and new cylinders, rods, rings, etc.. They said it would be more expensive
Im calling bullshit on them!

Ive since called Cincy Speed and Modular Depot, to weigh out some options even if they are right.

Granted i have a vortec and intercooler on there which my stock internals may not be able to hold,
but Im not completely sure about getting the aluminator, and replacing it due to my bank account.

At 63,000 miles, its too nice to part out and reccoop the money I just spent to buy the car 4 months ago..

Anyway, theres the history, other than the original owner passing away 4-5 years ago, and the daughters inheriting it.

Ill need alot of stuff swapped out on the new and/or rebuilt short block
headers, s/charger fuel rails, etc. and all the normal accesories..
Just dont want to have the same thng happen to me again

Now, like I said Ive tried to weigh out some options
Having just paid cash for the car, and also looking another 6-7 grand in a new aluminator with install, Im considering selling it.

Looking for feedback- Whats it worth as it sits ?
What would it be worth with a new and or rebuilt engine?


Mods/Description that I can think of, off the top of my head..
Exterior- Red, sunroof, Side exit exhaust, side scoops,real cobra R's (even have a 5th for a spare) on black leather
Drivetrain- T 56 6 speed, short throw aluminum driveshaft, 31 spline axles, 4.10 gears, Auburn Pro taction Lock

Engine -Vortech with intercooler (battery relocated to trunk)
custom fuel rails
42 lb injectors
255 in tank fuel pump
Billet fuel pressure regulator63,000 miles

Lowered, sub frame connectors, Steeda Upper and lower control arms
Exhaust- FMs shorties, Bassani x, Dynomax turbo side exhaust


Lots of other stuff Im forgetting.. but you get the point that its heavily modified, low miles, etc

Made 490 horse, 400 tq
I havent had it but about 4 months and really only drive the thing 8 miles one -way to work everyday.
But again- Looking for some feedback..

JIMS SVT
07-15-2010, 08:37 PM
like a camshaft bearing.

..

They dont have bearings.

Bayman
07-15-2010, 09:03 PM
keyword- Like, haha.. trying to describe the sound.
Thanks though Jim

PonymanfiveO
07-16-2010, 12:36 AM
Im sure you talked to Tim or Chris at MD. They should be able to piont you in the right direction. I work in the shop, if you bring it down I promise I wont call you asking how to put it in reverse. LMAO! :lol:


It could be a number of things. From a lash adjuster, to a follower, to a chain tensioner, to something as easy as a manifold exhaust leak.

I hate to say it, but thats a lot of power to a stock short block. I have seen many a piston ring land come apart on those engines with that kinda power.

How much boost does it make? who did the tuning?

bobtsgt
07-16-2010, 06:54 AM
Matt named quiet a bit of possibilities. It could be something very easy. If you have a mechanical oil pressure gauge hook it up and find out what pressure your running at cold. Should be pretty high. If it isn't then you have something loose or bad causing the oil to pour out instead of pressuring up inside

Bayman
07-16-2010, 06:55 AM
Hey ponyman..
Isn't that funny about reverse!?!
Yea, talked to Chris at modular depot.
The tuning and dyno all came before my ownership a few years back.
Currently makes 6 ish pounds of boost..
I'm at one of those times where I'm in a bad mood at the car..lol

Bayman
07-16-2010, 07:00 AM
Bobsgt.. oil pressure gauge inside the car was plenty high..
Thanks for the advice though..prolly should have it looked at by the pros in the first place,huh?

thecollector
07-16-2010, 11:51 AM
Ford Reman Motor w/ 3yr 100k warranty= $4,400 w/ core exchange.
I'll do the R&R for $1,400
If it's driveable bring it down, if not we can negotiate the tow.

mustangrfast88
07-16-2010, 02:35 PM
well man first mistake was taken it to middletown ford

Bayman
07-16-2010, 07:15 PM
Collector-
I got a price of $5009 for the reman engine. ( again from Middletown Ford, lol)
Maybe that wasnt including the core charge.
Its currently driveable, but not sure I want to take that chance

The problem I have wth the rebuilt, is that with the s/c on it, Im afraid of blowing the internals (again!?!)
Might buy the aluminator, and take you up on the swap.
I think thats what you meant by 'r&r' or repair, rebuild ?
Anyway let me know on that please..
And Im going to want to put all my mods on the newer engine, which ever route I decide to go with..
At this point its a weighing out my options game- UGH!
Aaaand I need to really see what the real issues are..

Thanks for the help everyone, keep the advice coming..
Jeff

inferno50
07-16-2010, 07:33 PM
remove and replace i think.

02mingryGT
07-17-2010, 09:11 AM
Bobsgt.. oil pressure gauge inside the car was plenty high..
Thanks for the advice though..prolly should have it looked at by the pros in the first place,huh?

What does it read at idle? Plenty high doesn't say anything.

thecollector
07-17-2010, 12:17 PM
R & R= remove and reinstall.

I carry an acct w/ ford and get a good price on parts. I don't get as good of a price on frpp stuff. The 3 yr/100k warranty is honored by all ford dealerships. I'm not sure warranty the aluminator carries. What's the pn for it.

Bayman
07-17-2010, 12:47 PM
02mingry
Dont have the car with me at the moment.
It was (and I know this sounds stupid) 75%

collector- I put this responce to you, on the other thread I have in here about the car

Really ? Wow, thanks!
Moduar Depot is the one who turned me on to the Aluminator, but they dont release part numbers..
Although i think ive found it here..
I need the 96-98 version for superchargers..
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M6009A46SCB
Might also consider the long block version based on pricing, but I think i can et a good set of port and polished heads for a grand-ish.
Thanks you Soooo much for
1. Even offering to help
2. Anything you can do with pricing.
Ive also considered using the mmr 900 mentioned here :
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/

Thank you soo much again!
Jeff

Bayman
08-26-2010, 01:04 AM
I havent decided what to do with the car..

A couple weeks ago, I drove it a few miles, and a block away from my house it died.
I THINK its the starter on that..

And I had a decent offer to sell it,

Anybody care to ballpark what I SHOULD/COULD get out of it ?

Timido
08-26-2010, 01:14 AM
Shoulda coulda mighta put it in the classifieds.... I will give you $15 and super sized big mac meal. I mean it is damaged goods

Timido
08-26-2010, 01:19 AM
Wait I just saw it in the classifieds! My offer still stands.

Bayman
08-26-2010, 01:33 AM
Haha.
Can I get a strawberry shake with that ?

Jake
08-26-2010, 08:49 AM
i have never heard of a starter killing the engine once its already...started :D
how did it die? was it stumbling then finally stall? did the battery die (you couldnt start it back up) or make any noises besides the initial knock. as far as the first problem is concerned, take off the valve cover and look around. feel everything out. see if any of the hydrolic lifters have seized. im not too sure about the dohc motors but on the 2v when the lifters get starved of oil they sieze and make that tapping sound. at any rate it is worth 20 minutes of your time to rule it out. shouldnt be teribly hard to spot. when it happened to mine, the rocker was just laying inside the head, not even close to its original position. :bigthumb
hope it helps
-jake

Bayman
08-26-2010, 09:05 AM
Thanks for the advice..
As far as the recent issue, I didn't hear any weird noises. It was in the midddle of a U turn on a street.
All accessories like the radio, lights etc are working.. Brand new battery, I tried to jump but it didn't help or seem to need it.
Engine won't turn over, and I hear the ' click click click '
Dead air type sound that is typically associated with the starter...
Ugh!

03z06vette
08-26-2010, 09:48 AM
Or the motor locked up???

03z06vette
08-26-2010, 12:50 PM
I mean engine....

thecollector
08-26-2010, 01:24 PM
Stick a socket on the crank pulley and see if the motor will turn over by hand (car in neutral of course).

As far as values go unemployment, and foreclosure are really supressing the car market. As a result the value of your car will suffer. I would say logically take the NADA value, and subtract the cost of a motor. That will be your starting point. From there you can negotiate either way. What you'll get out if it really depends on how hard up you are to sell, and how much patience you'll have hold to out for the right buyer. Now more than ever Modding a car seems to promise a net loss as an investment.

There's an ass for every seat. Right now there are more seats than ass's and most ass's are broke. Shoot me a PM, I can help you take a look at it to see whats wrong this weekend.

skeptiq
08-26-2010, 01:41 PM
Stick a socket on the crank pulley and see if the motor will turn over by hand (car in neutral of course).

As far as values go unemployment, and foreclosure are really supressing the car market. As a result the value of your car will suffer. I would say logically take the NADA value, and subtract the cost of a motor. That will be your starting point. From there you can negotiate either way. What you'll get out if it really depends on how hard up you are to sell, and how much patience you'll have hold to out for the right buyer. Now more than ever Modding a car seems to promise a net loss as an investment.

There's an ass for every seat. Right now there are more seats than ass's and most ass's are broke. Shoot me a PM, I can help you take a look at it to see whats wrong this weekend.

^^^ pretty much what he said. I really wish I was in the market for a roller right now... there are so many deals if you have cash. Won't be ready until next year though. Still have to much to do on vert before I start looking for track car... good luck with what ever you decide. Hope it all works out for you.

Ben

03z06vette
08-26-2010, 07:17 PM
Take the serp belt off. Ive seen a locked up alt cause a engine not to turn over.

Jake
08-26-2010, 08:18 PM
plus one on taking the belt off. but the starter will also click if it doesnt have enough power to turn the engine over. try jumping it again. i know it may sound stupid, but ive seen jumper cables that honestly just dont work or take a really long time. and from what you described, my over the internet diagnosis (aka- not worth shit) is that its just low on battery. or like o3zo6vette said, it could be something on your accessory drive froze up. i have seen the same thing happen with a/c compressor.
hope you get this thing figured out man.

Timido
08-26-2010, 09:40 PM
Ok I will throw in the Strayberry Shake even if it is locked up.

Bayman
08-29-2010, 11:02 PM
Thanks for the advice everybody.
Collector I sent you a PM.

Really hate thinking of selling this car, but its up in the air (not literally) as of right now.
Guess were gonna find out soon.