View Full Version : Losing Battery power fast
paulbrown91
02-24-2010, 09:41 AM
I have replaced everything that has to do with charging the battery.Where do i go from here?Alt,battery,wires are all new.
03z06vette
02-24-2010, 10:41 AM
give me a call battery draws are not too difficult to find. 513-398-7795
foxbodyfan
02-24-2010, 11:12 AM
Cold weather brings out the weakness in batteries that are starting to go.
1baddlx
02-24-2010, 12:41 PM
my glove box light was sticking on once and it took me forever to figure that one out
Stang88
02-24-2010, 06:10 PM
+1 on the glove box light. Also, your radio and computer have a little constant draw to hold the memory and when it's so cold outside you will drain down pretty quick. Another thought... have you recently hooked anything new up like gauges or amplifier power wire to your starter solenoid next to your coil?? That is constant draw as well. My battery went dead in just a short time with the cold we've had too. I purchased a Schumacher 1.5A speedcharge maintainer 18 watts ouput for $20.94 at Wal-Wart. I leave it plugged in and no problems since. Or, Autozone sells the exact same one for $29.99 That's why I went to the first place.
paulbrown91
02-24-2010, 09:34 PM
I was driving it to work and the power just went down faster than all holy hell.I havnt hooked anything new up.Havnt touched it in months.I really need it right now.
redfirepearlgt
02-24-2010, 10:37 PM
Mice get in the wiring by chance? Sorry didn't fully read you post earlier. Deleted everything because I saw you ahd already changed out the charging system. Don't forget about your trunk light or hood light if you have one. I was talking to someone the other day that started having problems and found a fresh mouse nest under the CAI filter. They said the mice had cheweinto the wiring. THey cleaned it up, heat shrinked some wires and problem solved. Hope it's that simple for you.
Stang88
02-24-2010, 11:21 PM
Another thing.. Make sure you are getting at 14 volts at the alternator when the car is running. Almost sounds like your battery was running the car and the new alternator is not actually charging. So, as you driveto work until you drained it. I believe you have an "exciter" wire that will power your alternator and tell it to kick on. On my car there is a resistor on the back of the dash cluster. If that pops it goes to the charge light on my dash cluster, and if that light bulb also burns out, you will not have anything that tells the alternator to kick on. use a digital volt meter to check the main power wire while the car is at idle. I know you may have to charge or replace your current battery b/c it is dead, but if that turns out to be the problem, do not drive the car with the alternator not working, as just letting it idle for a minute and checking the voltage at the alternator will not tax the charging sysytem as hard. I truly hopes this helps you, please let us know how else we can help.
Stang88
02-24-2010, 11:22 PM
I meant check the main power wire on the back of the alternator...
Def sounds like there is a problem with the alt. If you are driving it and the thing died I would check the alt. I had a problem with auto zone alts being bad when I got them or going bad quick. Get the alt checked and make sure the plug and ground on the alt are good. I had a plug burn up as well. I got real good and fast at changing the alt on a fox.
Doesnt seem like you need to look for a trunk light or glove box light if it ran out of power while driving it.
paulbrown91
02-26-2010, 09:44 AM
I want to thank everyone for there help...I found the problem and it was the Dash bulb for the battery.I didnt know the bulb was part of the circuit...I have to admit that i never would have looked at that if it wasnt for all your help...thank you very much.
Stang88
02-26-2010, 02:08 PM
yea.. that means that the resistor is blown too. I am going to be bypassing my resisitor on my car and using the PA Performance one wire setup conversion kit. I have an extra resistor you can have for free if you want it. I would not drive around with the new bulb in and not replace the resistor. The battery/ lowcharge light is supposed to be just a backup if that resistor blows. There is a reason why both had blown. The electrical path isn't complete unless that bulb is working. I would hate to see you having to replace that bulb out on a regular basis and or being stuck somewhere when that light bulb decides to burn out again. Give me a call if you want that resistor...Steve (321) 6636262
Stang88
02-26-2010, 02:12 PM
Did you see that resistor next to the light bulb on the back of the dash cluster? It should be a long silver metal thing that is about 1 1/2 inches long with two screws on either end...
paulbrown91
02-27-2010, 03:33 AM
That would be awsome...I heard from some one if i put a ecu from a 90-92 stang in my 95gt it would add 40hp.Is there any truth to this?
Stang88
02-27-2010, 11:21 PM
You can, but why not just get yours tuned with a chip and dynoed. You will have to have an aftermarket EEC harness I believe, BAP, and...?? A9L would be a 5 speed puter. Alot of people normally switch from a 95 computer to A9L because of driveability issues when lots of modifications are made. A tune would probably solve the issue as well.
Cheeze
03-20-2010, 09:14 PM
Stang88. Do you happen to know how many ohms the resistor is on the cluster. I am trying to get my alt working on my car but I don't have the factory cluster. I switched to all autometer gauges. Also I am using this in an RX7 with a 351w.
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