Clutch dissengagement questions...

[Stangman]

I've been helping a buddy of mine finish up the build of his '86 Mazda RX7 with a 351w in it, and we are using a T5 trans... We have to use a hydraulic clutch due to not enough room under the dash for a quadrant. It seems however that we cannot get the clutch to dissengage no matter how far we adjust the slave cylinder. I was under the car last night and I could see the throwout bearing contacting the clutch pressure plate fingers and I kept tightening it down, and still could not get the clutch to disengage....

My question is, How much throw does a T5 setup need to dissengage the clutch??

Also, should the throwout bearing be riding on the fingers ready for dissengagement, or have a gap between them? (that would cause bearing squeal wouldnt it?)

Any help would be appreciated. This thing is ALMOST driveable...

In case you are curious, its a non roller 351w, punched 30 over, milled/ported stock heads, studs and roller rockers, about 3 steps up from stock cam, edelbrock torker 2 intake, eddy carb... i believe comp. ratio is almost 10.5/1. She runs good!

Drive train is a stock T5, king cobra clutch, using wilwood master cyl, and I think a wilwood slave... stock mazda rear with factory 4.11 gears, steeda tri-ax shifter.

The motor does not fit under the hood anymore :lol:

[03z06vette]

i think you need to make a free travel adj. u prob need to shorten the push rod.

[Stangman]

What exactly do you mean about a free travel adjustment Tommy? I don't think I follow you..

as for the rod, I think it may need shortened as well. Supposedly the slave he is using is the one that all the guys who do the swap are using. and It has an inch and 3/8's travel.

[03z06vette]

measure from the fork to the bolt holes, then on the slave from the bolt hole to the end of the rod it should be less on the slave by about 3\16in. measure with the fork pushed so the brg is touching the presure plate.