Seriously, GM? Do things properly.

[mailman]

My friend bought his daughters matching S10 ZR1 trucks a few years ago that I maintain. They are both still under 50k. I did the ENTIRE front end on one of them last fall, and now the other needs the same treatment. The ZR1 package is trim, 4wd, shocks, springs, wheels, and 31.5x10.5x15 tires. The steering components are the same parts as on the plain jane S10s. After 47k, there is a full inch of movement when I check the tie rods. The idler bushing is worn, all 4 tie rod ends are sloppy, and the pitman is sloppy. What junk. I actually grease the front end at oil changes- I can't imagine the poor saps that go to cheapy oil change places that don't bother. I'll bet they get even less out of a front end. You would think if the factory sticks knobbys on a truck, they would look at what those big honkin' tires were bolted to.

50k out of a front end. That's beyond questionable- that's just embarrassing.
I just did the front end for the first time on my Volvo at 220k miles.

[thecollector]

You think that's bad drive a Dodge.... I guess I can't complain I did my Ram's first front-end overhaul at 75k, Then again at 130k (Tie rod broke @70mph on I-75s @ sharon road:eek:), and will soon again now at 180k. All moog parts with Zerks. I could do worse things on a Saturday afternoon but the parts costs are starting to really add up. At least it's just a 2wd Double A Arm coil front.

At least for you it's job security, for me it's maintenance overhead.

[347sc]

I have replaced everything in the front at 25k on a few.

[BigBadStang]

I used to make a great living replacing the dual idler arms on those junk ass Astro vans! :D

[Black Horse]

What do you expect from Mexico?

[stang5slow]

only buy if the vins first number is a 1 lol

[Ranger50]

That's fairly normal.

As for blame, I would blame the bean counters for shaving that last penny out of any part. The engineer can only design what he can get past the accountants.

Similar problem, lifters/tappets in a CDJ 4.7. They are junk. I have replaced many sets due to ticking. have they issued a new part number for them? Heck no! The bean counters have decided that the replacement cost is a lesser liability then really fixing the problem. But what can you do.

Brian

[Sparky]

That's fairly normal.

As for blame, I would blame the bean counters for shaving that last penny out of any part. The engineer can only design what he can get past the accountants.

Similar problem, lifters/tappets in a CDJ 4.7. They are junk. I have replaced many sets due to ticking. have they issued a new part number for them? Heck no! The bean counters have decided that the replacement cost is a lesser liability then really fixing the problem. But what can you do.

Brian

My 03 Ram 4.7 started this very noise at exactly 71,000 miles. I opted for the 7 year/70,000 warranty. It goes away after idling for a minute, but I know its gonna crap out sometime soon. It has 83,000 on it now. What does this fix cost, out of curiosity?

[Ranger50]

My 03 Ram 4.7 started this very noise at exactly 71,000 miles. I opted for the 7 year/70,000 warranty. It goes away after idling for a minute, but I know its gonna crap out sometime soon. It has 83,000 on it now. What does this fix cost, out of curiosity?

I think the last set I did, I quoted out 4hrs for labor @ $93/hr and $16 a lifter/tappet. But that is doing it the Chrysler way... The flat rate way, you can do the job in 1.5hrs taking your time. ;)

I will also say, watch out as I have seen the ticking noise end up being con rod bearings. I have one in the shop right now that started out as a tick and is ending up having a knock. Hello, LONGBLOCK time! :(:flipoff::eek:

Brian

[Sparky]

Awesome, from what I gather its a 1 year only engine because of the crank sensor or some BS. Hopefully I can get away with tappets.

[Ranger50]

My longblock is listed as 03-06 or 7 in the Mopar Reman catalog for DR bodied trucks.