power door locks

[Steves LX]

If you disconnect the passenger power door lock harness should you still have power to the drvs side door lock? Because I dont. It seems as if the passenger side door lock harness is giving power to both it and the drvs side. I have discovered this due to something that is killing my battery. I put a brand new battery in the wifes car last week. She drove this thing all day Friday and I drove it Friday night. I came out yestarday and it was dead. I mean absolutely dead. No dome light no nothing. When you turn the key on the guages didn't even move. So I put it on charge for a few hours and started troubleshooting the fuse box for current that is being drawn with car off. There was not amp draw anywhere with the car off. We had to ereplace the door lock switch on the passenger side a few weeks ago. So I thought maybe that was suspect. I disconnected it last night and thats when I realized that with it disconnected the drvs side didn't work either. I left it disconnected over night and went out this morning and the car started but it still a bit sluggish to start. I noticed the dome lightr wasn't very bright either when I first opened the door up this morning. So I drove it a few miles and left it sit for about an hour and then went to start it again and it barely cranked over. It did start though. I am assuming this battery is probably shot now. Any ideas about this door lock deal?

[quik lx]

Steve, I looked at the schematic. It looks like power (12vdc)comes in to both switches on the black wire with a white tracer. The ground for the system is only on the left switch (solid black wires) The pink wire with yellow tracer and pink wire with green tracer reverse the ground though you holding the switch to run the actuator back and forth. If you had a short in one of these wires it would be holding the actuator all the time draining the battery. Disconnect the battery, then disconnect the drivers switch, then use your meter on OHMS setting you should be able to touch all the wires in the connector and have no reading. If you do that's the wire with the short on it.

Sorry I didn't return your call last night, I couldnt hear my phone at the Cyclones game.

[Steves LX]

Steve, I looked at the schematic. It looks like power (12vdc)comes in to both switches on the black wire with a white tracer. The ground for the system is only on the left switch (solid black wires) The pink wire with yellow tracer and pink wire with green tracer reverse the ground though you holding the switch to run the actuator back and forth. If you had a short in one of these wires it would be holding the actuator all the time draining the battery. Disconnect the battery, then disconnect the drivers switch, then use your meter on OHMS setting you should be able to touch all the wires in the connector and have no reading. If you do that's the wire with the short on it.

Sorry I didn't return your call last night, I couldnt hear my phone at the Cyclones game.

That's cool Joe. I will try that and let you know what I find. Did you get a Obama bobble head?

[NXcoupe]

Yeah, the locks are in series so that either switch operates both locks. I had a switch that was stuck in the unlock position and would run the battery down, but not before it gradually unlocked the door. Was the weirdest thing I have ever seen. Door lock would slowly come up after about a minute, then the solenoid would get hot, and drain the battery. Replaced the switch and it was fixed.

[Steves LX]

Well I did the whole ohm thing and I was getting resistance on the drvs side but nothing on the passenger side. I decided to take the door panel off and I found 2 wires that go to the actuator sitting against the door metal. the ends had bare wire exposed. When you touch the 2 wires together and hit the door lock button the wires would spark. If you just touch them together they would do noting. I am hopeing that perhaps the fact that these 2 wires were sitting against the metal in the door that this was the problem. Not sure what happen to the actuator. It's no longer in the door anymore.

[Steves LX]

I forgot to mention that after tapeing up these 2 bare wires I checked the ohms on the wires for the door lock switch again and the resistance like quadrupled. At first I was only getting like 3.26 or so on the power wire and now I am getting like 45-50.6. I am confused any help would be appreciated.