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BigBadStang
01-07-2009, 10:46 PM
Someone needs to help me figure this damn thing out before I burn it to the ground.

95 Mustang 3.8L Auto

History...
I had been nursing the car along for a while with a seeping radiator sealed with aluma seal. In November it was seeping again, and seemed to take spells where it would run a tad warm, so I decided to replace all the hoses and the radiator, and flush it out. After doing this, and filling it with new coolant, it would still take spells of running warm (up to the "L" of NORMAL on the guage) and the guage reading erratic. The guage would go up, then it would stop blowing hot air and blow cold air, then as soon as the guage would drop it would blow heat again. This shit would continue the entire time I drove it. OK, I thought it's acting like it's low on coolant or has air trapped in it, so I removed the vent plug and the radiator cap and check the coolant, it was a tad low, topped it off with about 10-15 ounces...not nearly enough to make it do what it was doing.
Problem persisted, so I though I would change thermostat and radiator cap. Bought new T-stat and cap, started filling it up with coolant, and the damn water pump was leaking from the back/bottom weep hole. Bought a new (not reman) water pump and put it on. With the vent plug out, I SLOWLY filled the radiator with coolant, started it up, let the t-stat open and close 5 or 6 times, and everything seemed fine. Let it cool down, and checked coolant level. I topped it off with maybe a cup or two and put the cap back on and took it for a drive. All seemed fine...blowing hot air, guage not going up and down wildly...alright! Fixed...I thought...

Started it up to go to work the next night, and same old bullshit, but I figured out if I took it out of overdrive and kept the RPM's above 2500, it would continue to blow heat, and the guage wouldn't move around nearly as much. But if I drove the car on the highway, under 2500 RPM's it would run warm on the guage, and it would start to pump coolant out of the overflow tank and drench the engine.

Must be a head gasket me thinks. I bust out the pressure tester, and check the cap first. It is fine and doesn't pop off until 18-19 PSI, just like it's rated. Next, I hook it up and pump the cooling system just below the recommended max pressure of 28 PSI and go back inside and wait an hour. I go back out, and the pressure hasn't dropped at all...zero...zip. So, the next step is to start it up and let it run to see if the guage on the tester pulses or rises. I do this, and nothing, needle never moves.

So thinking it still may have air in it somewhere, I take the vent plug out, and leave the radiator cap on and I use a long funnel, and thread the end of it and screw it in where the vent plug goes. Then fill it up with coolant, and it slowly goes down. Doing this, I get almost a whole gallon of coolant in it! This has to be the fix I thought. I started it up, and it warmed up slowly, and was blowing warm air, and as it ran longer and warmed up more the heat increased. WOOT WOOT!! It's fixed! Let it run for about 30 minutes holding the RPM's at various places and all is good!

I need to take it for a test drive to make sure. I fire it up, and head out of the sub division. By the time I get to the main road (1 mile) it starts blowing cool air with the temp knob turned all the way up. I get on the main road and the heat returns. I get on the 129 highway and my goal is to go to Cinci-Dayton Rd. and back (about 7 miles each way). After about 4 miles, the guage starts it's bullshit again, and the heat subsides some. I turn OD off and the RPM's rise above 2500 and the guage settles back down and the heat returns. I make the flip at Cin-Day Rd. and while sitting for a red light, the guage creeps up, and the heat turns to cold air. I go up the ramp and back on the highway, OD still off, and the guage goes past the "L" on NORMAL almost to the red line "H" and stays there...no heat either. Then I see smoke rolling out from behind me and I can smell anti-freeze. I pull over to look at it, and the overflow tank has overflowed drenching the engine causing the smoke. I am so pissed now that I drive it home...commanding it to "blow the fuck up, you sorry bitch!!". Well it didn't but all the way back home the guage stayed put just under the red line "H". I look at it when I get home and it had puked more coolant out of the overflow tank, and the shit was dripping off of everything under the hood. Having had enough of this car, and this bullshit problem, I closed the hood and walked away.

I have done everything I know to do, and it still hasn't changed a thing, and frankly, I'm sick of fucking with it. I don't know what else it could be, unless it has a cracked head or a seeping head gasket that only rears it's head when the engine gets good and warm, because it doesn't show up on the pressure tester.

Any ideas...please help if you can. I know this post is wordy, and long, but I wanted to give the jist of things.
Thanks for reading.

Black Horse
01-07-2009, 11:19 PM
Do you notice the smell of gasoline in your antifreeze? If you can find someone with an exhaust gas analyzer have them hold it above the radiator fill and see if you get a reading of exhaust gas. Also check to see if you have any coolant in your oil (would show up on the bottom of the dipstick).

My guesses based on past 3.8 issues would be
- headgasket
- intake gasket

If you have to pull the heads to change the head gaskets, be sure to check the heads to be sure they are not warped. Use new head bolts as well.

Let us know what more you find.

dawsin94cobra
01-07-2009, 11:19 PM
maby a heater core?

Black Horse
01-07-2009, 11:23 PM
maby a heater core?

I doubt it, would not account for coolant coming out the overflow.

Ryan218
01-07-2009, 11:57 PM
coolant passage blocked in the head or head(s) maybe?

8banger
01-07-2009, 11:59 PM
Easy test if you can find a garage with this or I'm in northern Ky and b glad to test it for combustion leak for free.. Its a blue fliud that turns yellow indicating a combustion leak throught the cooling system...

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=69954&group_ID=1505&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

8banger
01-08-2009, 12:01 AM
And it does sound like a head gasket or cracked head...Done several 3.8's

98stangv6
01-08-2009, 12:09 AM
95s did have bad head gasket problems

chad393na
01-08-2009, 12:10 AM
Yea, that's one of ford's worst engines for blowing head gaskets, i've done a bunch of them. Another test you can try is:
1. run till it's warmed up(you can also try this test cold first)
2. fill rad. to top
3. pull coil wire
4. crank engine over and watch for coolant pouring out of the rad.
(it will only do this if combustion is entering the cooling system)

BigBadStang
01-08-2009, 08:50 AM
Thanks for the input guys.
I have been thinking all along it's a head issue, I've had the top end gasket set and head bolts sitting on top of the toolbox for a few weeks now :lol:. It just threw me a curve ball when it passed the pressure tests, and made me second guess. The only thing I can think of that may have done it was when I flushed it out. Maybe that flush chemical ate up a failing portion of the gasket? I replaced the head gaskets about 100k miles ago. That time it was burning the coolant and smoking out of the exhaust. I guess I will just get reman heads and swap them being the originals have 143K on them. Any one know a place local to get reman heads at a fair price?

BigBadStang
01-08-2009, 04:14 PM
Do you notice the smell of gasoline in your antifreeze? If you can find someone with an exhaust gas analyzer have them hold it above the radiator fill and see if you get a reading of exhaust gas. Also check to see if you have any coolant in your oil (would show up on the bottom of the dipstick).

My guesses based on past 3.8 issues would be
- headgasket
- intake gasket

If you have to pull the heads to change the head gaskets, be sure to check the heads to be sure they are not warped. Use new head bolts as well.

Let us know what more you find.

Dave, there is no moisture/coolant in the crankcase at all that I can tell. There is no gasoline smell that my sniffer (nose...lol) can detect, but I can't tell for sure, but it looks like it may have a very slight film swirling in the coolant when I look into the radiator. If it does, its not much at all, it's very hard to see it unless I shine a light down in there.

The more I wrack my brain on this the more I believe it needs heads, and gaskets...it's about all that's left.

Dirtyd0g
01-08-2009, 04:50 PM
I have seen this scenario a few too many times. Start pulling the heads you are getting combustions gases in the cooling system. Would be a good time for a splitport swap.
Alan

Timido
01-08-2009, 09:54 PM
Yup if its a 3.8 it needs headgaskets and I bet the timing cover is leaking coolant also.

BigBadStang
01-09-2009, 12:53 AM
Yup if its a 3.8 it needs headgaskets and I bet the timing cover is leaking coolant also.


What would I be getting into pulling the timing cover and replacing that gasket? I have heard mixed things...some say you have to drop the oil pan, some say you don't. :confused:

Timido
01-10-2009, 02:33 PM
You dont need to drop the oil pan to do the timing cover. Just use black or grey silicone in place of the oil pan gasket on the front of the pan. Set the timing pointer to TDC 0 degrees.. Mark you distibutor to the block and timing pointer to the distrubor before removing it. If it has a cam sensor mark the sensor to the block and the inner part of the shaft to the sensor body. You will need a ballancer puller and installer and the cam sensor tool if you dont mark the cam sensor properly before pulling it. Take care to not get anything in the oil gally holes in the front of the block. The cover gasket is not the bad to replace in the Rear wheel drive mustangs. The front wheel drive 3.8s are a little more trouble with the motor mounts in the way. I like to put a small amount of silicone around the water jackets on the gaskets. Clean all the old gasket material without getting it into the oil gallys and keeping it out of the pan.

BigBadStang
01-10-2009, 10:42 PM
Thanks for the "how to" Timido!
Good to know.
I'm doing some research, and I haven't made up my mind as to what I am going to do yet.

BigBadStang
02-15-2009, 11:46 AM
Well... I put a set of reman heads on, did the timing chain and gears, and all the gaskets and stuff, and it is fixed!
It looked like one of the heads had a hairline crack in it that probably was opening up after the head heated up and expanded, allowing compression to leak into the cooling system causing the coolant to be pushed out of the expansion tank.

And you were right Timido about the front cover gasket leaking coolant. it wasn't leaking much, but it was taking a shit for sure.

11PSIVert
03-30-2009, 12:48 AM
Damn..........I have the same symptoms

BigBadStang
03-30-2009, 10:10 AM
Damn..........I have the same symptoms

Yeah...I know how you are feeling. It's something you don't want to realize is the problem, but it wasn't bad to do. It took me about 14 hours total (4 hours to tear it down)to do the fix, and that included plugs, wires, oil change, and welding up a crack on the catalytic converter. I bought my heads from Moores Head Service, and they were good, quality pieces.