Where to start for lower 60ft times

[redfirepearlgt]

I am looking for direction on what to do for getting a little better 60 ft. time on my 05 GT/manual/stock 3.55 dif/stock suspension/cai/tune. Stock tires, stock setup on the suspension. Currently turning 2.1-2.06 60ft times with my lowest ET 13.693@102.72. This car is my daily to work. Drag radials asside, what would be a good first upgrade that would be the biggest improvement without throwing the entire savings account at the car? I am assuming LCA's or sub frame connectors. Your feedback is appreciated.

[Sharad]

Really man, tires are the first thing... but rear control arms or one of those sway bar eliminators like UPR has would be a good move too. http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=1121

[redfirepearlgt]

Thanks. I have the drag radials off of my old 02 inthe garage which will be mounted up and put on, but I wanted to also take the next step. LCA's was what I was thinking, just wanted a little reassurance from those who really race on a regular basis. I'm just a go down and play on test/tune Saturdays kind of guy. Thanks very much for takingthe time to respond.

[PaulFiveOh]

Personally I think soft springs up front are the first thing

[Goober]

A lot of seat time. DR's, and springs would be my next move. Let the weight transfer better before you go replacing components that arn't being used at their potential yet.

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

^^ I agree. Experience will pay off more than any part you can buy. That aside, i would also look into springs/adjustable shocks and struts/sway bar. The LCA's on the new cars are much better than the old Fox parts and from what i've read/heard you can keep the stockers for much longer before you need to replace them with newer parts (of course that depends on just how fast and how much power you have).

[redfirepearlgt]

Personally I think soft springs up front are the first thing


A lot of seat time. DR's, and springs would be my next move. Let the weight transfer better before you go replacing components that arn't being used at their potential yet.

Softer springs. . . would there be a loss of ridability by putting "softer" springs up front? What are we talking here Steeda, Eibach, FRPP? Stage I mods is as far as I wish to go at this point. Keep in mind that this is a daily driver year around and not a racer/play toy.

Thanks so much for the feedback. I wish I had started doing this 20 years ago. THen again after seeing a 79 year old man in a Ford powered Chevette running high 10's yesterday, I feel encouraged that I may have a lot of years of fun in front of me still. :bigthumb

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

I think you could get some drag springs combined with 5 way adjustable shocks and struts and you wouldn't loose much street manors. You have to compromise somewhere though....for example, if you take off the front sway bar you're gonna see a good improvement in weight transfer at the track but it's gonna result in lazy steering on the street. You may wanna look into just unbolting the sway bar when you take it to the track, then bolt it back on when you're not racing. Then with the adjustable shocks you can tighten them up on the street and then dial them in for weight transfer at the track.

[craigels]

Tires, cheap lowers, cheap upper and front sway bar removed... I was pulling mid 1.60s all day yesterday at UMTR. I can recommend a good shop if you would like.


Craig

[Goober]

Softer springs. . . would there be a loss of ridability by putting "softer" springs up front? What are we talking here Steeda, Eibach, FRPP? Stage I mods is as far as I wish to go at this point. Keep in mind that this is a daily driver year around and not a racer/play toy.


I would stay away from any "lowering" springs, they usually have a stiffer spring rate. IDK if Eibach makes a drag launch spring for the S197's yet. Mike "Wheels Up" Bell (rscoupe) uses FRPP springs in his coupe. PM him and see which set he is using and would reccomend. I talked to him about the Drag Launch springs and he told me they start to have a negative effect once you start getting into the mid 11's.

Since tis is also your daily driver, I would look more into the adjustable shocks and struts to get the weight transfer. Then all you have to do is turn 4 dials to go from street to strip. Make sure they are externally adjustable with a dial on the side of the shock body or a dial on top of the shock rod. Koni yellows require unbolting the shock and twisting the housing.

[redfirepearlgt]

Thanks all. This gives a good idea of direction. I appreciate the responses. I have a little research to do so I can better decide whether to go the adjustable shock/strut direction or the "cheap" LCA,UCA, and say bar direction. I do appreciate this very much. Hopefully see you all sometime at tri-state. I will possibly be back over there this coming Saturday if the weather is good.

[craigels]

Thanks all. This gives a good idea of direction. I appreciate the responses. I have a little research to do so I can better decide whether to go the adjustable shock/strut direction or the "cheap" LCA,UCA, and say bar direction. I do appreciate this very much. Hopefully see you all sometime at tri-state. I will possibly be back over there this coming Saturday if the weather is good.

We'll be at TriState TnT this Saturday... look me up, car in avatar, you won't miss me. I'd be happy to chat with you about your ride.

By "cheap" I mean I found a 3 piece set (solid lowers, adj upper 3rd) of D&D control arms on ebay for less than $200. You can spend more or less on a set from different companies. If I did it again, I would spend a few extra bucks on a set with better bushings than what I have. Removing the sway bar is FREE! and it helps with weight transfer.


Craig

[redfirepearlgt]

We'll be at TriState TnT this Saturday... look me up, car in avatar, you won't miss me. I'd be happy to chat with you about your ride.

By "cheap" I mean I found a 3 piece set (solid lowers, adj upper 3rd) of D&D control arms on ebay for less than $200. You can spend more or less on a set from different companies. If I did it again, I would spend a few extra bucks on a set with better bushings than what I have. Removing the sway bar is FREE! and it helps with weight transfer.


Craig

Great, I'll see you there on Saturday. Just keep an eye out for the charcoal stripes. I see the temps are suppose to be a bit low, but it is expected to be a clear day. Thanks for the invite.

[Sharad]

I think Craig at Cincy Speed sells UPR. Upper and lower control arms along with the sway bar eliminator will be a great improvement for you!

[craigels]

Great, I'll see you there on Saturday. Just keep an eye out for the charcoal stripes. I see the temps are suppose to be a bit low, but it is expected to be a clear day. Thanks for the invite.

Low temps are good, just need the track to hook! See you Saturday, I'm looking forward to it! :bigthumb


I think Craig at Cincy Speed sells UPR. Upper and lower control arms along with the sway bar eliminator will be a great improvement for you!

When I bought UPR stuff for the '88, Craig referred me directly to UPR...

No need for a sway bar eliminator in the front... just remove sway bar and end links.

[Stangman]

Transman is a UPR dealer as well :bigthumb