Project stock block, crank, and rods!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Figured since I think I've finally decided on a combo :lol:, I'd post up some pics of what I have so far.

Picked the short block up last night:

http://img2.putfile.com/main/5/12417325635.jpg
http://img2.putfile.com/main/5/12417325672.jpg
http://img2.putfile.com/main/5/1241732569.jpg
http://img2.putfile.com/main/5/12417325765.jpg

Its a 71' block, crank, and rods, with KB pistons on them, that are going to be taken off and replaced with some TRW forged, dished pieces. One of the pistons has a crack in it, so the guy just gave me them. Pretty sure they're the Silvo-lites(they say 999p on them), but not sure.

I had a really hard time deciding on who I wanted to take the shortblock to, to have the rotating assembly balanced, new bearings installed, and have the shortblock assembled. I'm going to take it to BES tomorrow morning. I was so pleased with the work they did on my heads, that I'm going to take it to Tony and let him work his magic.

I've also got a Fidanza aluminum flywheel, Powerbond balancer, and Rollmaster timing chain I'm going to take him. I just swapped the 28oz weight on the flywheel and the balancer is a 28oz. Its not ATI, but I've heard very good things about powerbond, and for the price, they are a nice balancer. I bought it used anyway so I paid even less.

http://img2.putfile.com/main/5/12417325733.jpg
http://img2.putfile.com/main/5/12417325721.jpg
http://img2.putfile.com/main/5/12417325758.jpg

I should be ordering my Team Z drop K member next friday, so that will probably be the first thing I'll do during this build. I'll try and keep this updated if I don't go and sell everything off again! :lol: I'm going to attempt to buy stuff in order this time, so I actually have something to work on. I hope to having it running N/A by the end of the year.

[Jeff88coupe]

So a low compression 351W combo for some boost:) You will be very happy with BES's work...Tony will do it right. I was/am still very happy with my R347 shortblock that BES built for me.

[5.0calypso93lx]

So a low compression 351W combo for some boost:) You will be very happy with BES's work...Tony will do it right. I was/am still very happy with my R347 shortblock that BES built for me.

Thats the plan at least :lol: Still need to see some peoples cars and get some ideas for a fuel setup. I've got a walbro 255 for the tank, but not sure if an inline t rex is going to be enough pump. Definitely going to go with some SD 60lb'ers.

This is fairly close as to what I'm basing my setup off of:

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=104946.0

[5.0calypso93lx]

I need to edit my title now. After talking with Tony, he said it would be around $200 to have the stock rods reconditioned and to have ARP rod bolts put in. He said for $230, he can get me Eagle SIR forged I beams, which is a much better rod for $30 more. I'd be an idiot not to, so I told him to go ahead. So now its just stock block and crank :lol:

[PaulFiveOh]

Do 351's also have the same stigma of "The stock block will fail before the internals fail?" (comparing to the 302)

[5.0calypso93lx]

Do 351's also have the same stigma of "The stock block will fail before the internals fail?" (comparing to the 302)

From what I have read up on, and Bischoff confirmed this, is that the block, crank, and rods(with arp rod bolt upgrade), will fail around the same time. Obviously it depends on RPM and the tune, but it's a good idea to stay under 700fwhp.

I plan on staying low boost, 8-10lbs, but may turn it up to around 12 at the track.

[PaulFiveOh]

good idea to stay under 700fwhp.

Yea those engines don't like to run sideways. :D

Any ways, must be nice is all I have to say....

[5.0calypso93lx]

Yea those engines don't like to run sideways. :D

Any ways, must be nice is all I have to say....

In this case, FWHP = Fly wheel horse power.

I really didn't see any other choice than going with a 351w for the power levels I am hoping to make. If you think about it, most people are going to upgrade things like oil pans, distributors, exhaust, and intake manifolds on 302 stock block based strokers, so why not step up to a much stronger block and crank with the 351w? You get the cubic inces you want, and you don't even need to upgrade the crank.

[Rick93coupe]

From what I have read up on, and Bischoff confirmed this, is that the block, crank, and rods(with arp rod bolt upgrade), will fail around the same time. Obviously it depends on RPM and the tune, but it's a good idea to stay under 700fwhp.

I plan on staying low boost, 8-10lbs, but may turn it up to around 12 at the track.


I've talked to dozens of guys making a lot more power than that with stock blocks. Keep it under 6500 and you'll be fine.

[ibstrokin]

There are quite a few people on here that are running in the 9's with stock block 351's. 91lxnos was running 10.40's a few years ago with stock crank and rods(arp bolts). Sounds like your on the right path, good luck.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I've talked to dozens of guys making a lot more power than that with stock blocks. Keep it under 6500 and you'll be fine.

I completely agree. Guy over on TTF is very close to what I am basing my setup off of, and he is making 637rwhp, with an untouched ECU, and an OTS Trick Flow Stage 2 cam with a 112 LSA. I'm sure I'll get greedy at some point, and turn the boost up a little. But going from a stock motored bolt on car to a FI 351w is a huge difference, and potentially dangerous for a newb like myself. So right now my focus and goal is to get the car running NA this year.

Vinny style FTW!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Will a Walbro GSS340 255lph pump, and an inline vortech t-rex behind enough fuel pump to max out the stock 351w block?

[ibstrokin]

It depends on your setup, a nitrous combo won't require as sophisticated of a fuel system as a boosted car. I don't think the stock fuel line would support a maxed out 351 block in a boosted app. My a1000 held out to over 700fwhp, with -8 line. If you want to make more than that, I would suggest a aftermarket fuel system, and a aeromotive eliminator pump. Rick and I have been researching this for awhile, and this seems to be the cheapest option.

[5.0calypso93lx]

It depends on your setup, a nitrous combo won't require as sophisticated of a fuel system as a boosted car. I don't think the stock fuel line would support a maxed out 351 block in a boosted app. My a1000 held out to over 700fwhp, with -8 line. If you want to make more than that, I would suggest a aftermarket fuel system, and a aeromotive eliminator pump. Rick and I have been researching this for awhile, and this seems to be the cheapest option.

Have any more details on the eliminator pump? Also, I don't want anything to be seen from the back of the car.

[ibstrokin]

The newer eliminators will support around 1400 hp, you can mount them inside the tank if you want to be stealthy. My A1000 is mounted on the outside and in front of the tank, I'll be running a sumped tank this yr.

[5.0calypso93lx]

The newer eliminators will support around 1400 hp, you can mount them inside the tank if you want to be stealthy. My A1000 is mounted on the outside and in front of the tank, I'll be running a sumped tank this yr.

How soon do you think you will have the setup completed? I'd like to come check it out if you don't mind.

I think an A1000 is plenty for what I'm looking to make. How loud are the A1000's? Can I run that in combination with an intank like the walbro 255? Are you required to keep a certian amount of fuel in the tank at all times and do you have to worry about it overheating? I want something that is quiet, and streetable. I don't want something I have to worry about all the time.

I'm really thinking I should just save up and go with a complete kit from Glenn's. I keep hearing good things about that setup.

[ibstrokin]

I have a big pile of parts, I still need to have my convertor re-stalled, but your more than welcome to stop by and check it out.

I never heard my A1k over my exhaust. As far as plumbing, I used a intank pickup tune, it's very finicky about fuel level. You could probably run a 255 in parrellel, but I wouldn't run them in series. I plan on running a sump to get the fuel feed lower, and less finicky fuel level. I had overheating problems until I put turndowns on the car.

[mustangboy]

Have you ever considered a Race Pump. I would have used one if they made one for a bbf. You will never need to buy a bigger pump as you make more hp, it makes no noise, has no electrical connections to make and is no more money than an electric in fact probably less. Check them out they look pretty damn slick. www.racepumps.com (http://www.racepumps.com). I think Craig is selling them now.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I have a big pile of parts, I still need to have my convertor re-stalled, but your more than welcome to stop by and check it out.

I never heard my A1k over my exhaust. As far as plumbing, I used a intank pickup tune, it's very finicky about fuel level. You could probably run a 255 in parrellel, but I wouldn't run them in series. I plan on running a sump to get the fuel feed lower, and less finicky fuel level. I had overheating problems until I put turndowns on the car.

What do you mean by finicky? I really don't want to have to worry about fuel level and overheating. I'm not sure on the exhaust setup yet either.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Have you ever considered a Race Pump. I would have used one if they made one for a bbf. You will never need to buy a bigger pump as you make more hp, it makes no noise, has no electrical connections to make and is no more money than an electric in fact probably less. Check them out they look pretty damn slick. www.racepumps.com (http://www.racepumps.com). I think Craig is selling them now.

I will definitely do some research on that. Looks like a nice design.

[Rick93coupe]

Hey James, the A1000 is a rock solid pump, its the setup that feeds the pump that causes them to fail. If you sump your stock tank, you can mount the pump to the plastic tank cover and it won't be seen. If you plan on making more power, I would opt for the eliminator. Thats what I'm going to use and see how far it will take me. If you mount them solidly to metal then they're a little noisey, if you use insulators they're not bad at all. Don't use a pickup tube! You can build the setup yourself cheaper then you can buy it from Glenns.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Hey James, the A1000 is a rock solid pump, its the setup that feeds the pump that causes them to fail. If you sump your stock tank, you can mount the pump to the plastic tank cover and it won't be seen. If you plan on making more power, I would opt for the eliminator. Thats what I'm going to use and see how far it will take me. If you mount them solidly to metal then they're a little noisey, if you use insulators they're not bad at all. Don't use a pickup tube! You can build the setup yourself cheaper then you can buy it from Glenns.

Can you see a sump from the back of the car?

I figured you can build the setup for much cheaper than the Glenn setup. I've been considering just buying one of their tanks and building my own setup.

[Rick93coupe]

No you can't see it from the back of the car if you do it like this. You literally mount it to the front side of the fuel tanks plastic cover. The only thing you can see is the fuel line, but if you use black hose and fittings you'd really have to look to see it.

[5.0calypso93lx]

No you can't see it from the back of the car if you do it like this. You literally mount it to the front side of the fuel tanks plastic cover. The only thing you can see is the fuel line, but if you use black hose and fittings you'd really have to look to see it.

I meant the sump itself.

I wouldn't think there would be any way to hide a sump like this, even if it was black:

http://www.glennsperformance.com/images/sumped_tanked_new_04_01_07.gif

Plus my car is an LX, and that rear bumper is really short. I think I'd be best with going with the sleeper tank from Glenn's then building the rest of the system myself.

[Rick93coupe]

I meant the sump itself.

I wouldn't think there would be any way to hide a sump like this, even if it was black

http://www.glennsperformance.com/images/sumped_tanked_new_04_01_07.gif

Plus my car is an LX, and that rear bumper is really short. I think I'd be best with going with the sleeper tank from Glenn's then building the rest of the system myself.


I hope your not planning on making that much power and expecting it to be a sleeper! :D But I suppose you could buy that expensive take if you wanted.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I hope your not planning on making that much power and expecting it to be a sleeper! :D But I suppose you could buy that expensive take if you wanted.

That's the plan :) I don't want anything done to the exterior other than what is done right now(maybe a saleen front lip and a steeda aero wing way down the road).

[Rick93coupe]

FYI, the noise is going to give you away. you can't really disguise horsepower.

[5.0calypso93lx]

FYI, the noise is going to give you away. you can't really disguise horsepower.

:lol:LOL, you win.:lol:

[5.0calypso93lx]

These showed up at the front door when I got home today:

http://img2.putfile.com/main/5/13418321027.jpg
http://img2.putfile.com/main/5/13418321168.jpg

They're Speed Pro pistons, part #ZL2378F30.

Also picked up a new dizzy of off TonyT:

http://img2.putfile.com/main/5/13418321196.jpg


Taking the pistons up to Bischoff tomorrow, so now hopefully he can get started on assembling the short block.

[Rick93coupe]

Right on! It's fun getting new parts in the mail isn't it?

[95turbocharged]

there is a thread in projects in progress by kennebellcobra(shannon) he bought a front sump tank that was very nice but he also has a nice fuel setup and it is all hidden, you cant see anything unless its on jackstand and your under it.http://www.stangbangerz.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38791&page=3

[5.0calypso93lx]

Right on! It's fun getting new parts in the mail isn't it?

You know it! You've got a much nicer parts pile than me though! :lol::bigthumb Actually, from your thread, looks like it's coming together!!!

[5.0calypso93lx]

there is a thread in projects in progress by kennebellcobra(shannon) he bought a front sump tank that was very nice but he also has a nice fuel setup and it is all hidden, you cant see anything unless its on jackstand and your under it.http://www.stangbangerz.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38791&page=3

SWEET, that's exactly what I was lookin' for!

[95turbocharged]

you can pm shannon (kennebellcobra) and he cam tell you what where he got his stuff.

[Rick93coupe]

You know it! You've got a much nicer parts pile than me though! :lol::bigthumb Actually, from your thread, looks like it's coming together!!!

No matter how much you spend, you could always spend more. Your car will get down when its done, I'm glad to see you making the move to a windsor, you'll be happy you did!!
Plus, I've got over 10 yrs on ya, imagine where your car will be then.

[5.0calypso93lx]

How much power would dual -8 fuel lines to each fuel rail handle? This would be fed by Dual 255 LPH Walbro external Fuel Pumps.

[5.0calypso93lx]

THANKS Shannon!! That is a sweet garage!

[Jeff88coupe]

How much power would dual -8 fuel lines to each fuel rail handle? This would be fed by Dual 255 LPH Walbro external Fuel Pumps.

Heck...that would probably be good to feed 800+rwhp. Heck..I made ~500 rwhp with only a 190lph intank pump.

[Rick93coupe]

How much power would dual -8 fuel lines to each fuel rail handle? This would be fed by Dual 255 LPH Walbro external Fuel Pumps.

I'm running -8 under the hood on mine, so you'll have plenty of room to grow. Using -10 feed and -8 return.

[89notch]

How much power would dual -8 fuel lines to each fuel rail handle? This would be fed by Dual 255 LPH Walbro external Fuel Pumps.

That would support 1000RWHP. I think each of the pumps are good for 550+

[5.0calypso93lx]

I'm running -8 under the hood on mine, so you'll have plenty of room to grow. Using -10 feed and -8 return.

Dual -10 feeds or single?

[5.0calypso93lx]

That would support 1000RWHP. I think each of the pumps are good for 550+

The reason I'm asking is because I'd like to be able to run E85 and I think that requires 20-30% more fuel. I only want to do this one time, so if I have room to grow, that is a good thing.

[kennebellcobra]

THANKS Shannon!! That is a sweet garage!

No problem and thanks for the compliment;)

[ibstrokin]

You will only need one -10 feed. Even if you run 2 255lph pumps. Rick has some great pics on pump setups, but basically you want to come out of the tank in -10 or -12 into a filter, then a y block, into 2 pumps, back into a y block, then another filter, then -10 to the front, then into a y block, then -8 to each rail, then -8 from the rail to the reg, then -8 from the reg to the tank. You can wire your second pump to be on a hobbs switch to activate at low boost so that it's all caught up by the time your at high boost. I'm going to run a Aeromotive eliminator, that just seems to be the most simple solution to me.

[5.0calypso93lx]

You will only need one -10 feed. Even if you run 2 255lph pumps. Rick has some great pics on pump setups, but basically you want to come out of the tank in -10 or -12 into a filter, then a y block, into 2 pumps, back into a y block, then another filter, then -10 to the front, then into a y block, then -8 to each rail, then -8 from the rail to the reg, then -8 from the reg to the tank. You can wire your second pump to be on a hobbs switch to activate at low boost so that it's all caught up by the time your at high boost. I'm going to run a Aeromotive eliminator, that just seems to be the most simple solution to me.

How much power is that setup good for?

[ibstrokin]

Rick Spoke with Aeromotive, they stated that the new eliminator's ( black anodized ), will support 1400 fwhp in a boosted app. By the time you buy 2-255's, 2-y blocks, a hobbs switch, your probably 3/4 the price of a eliminator, and with a one pump system your not hoping the second pump kicks on. The eliminator doesn't need a controller either, not a bad idea, but not required.

[5.0calypso93lx]

WWWWWWWhhhhhooaaaaa it's been a while since I have even opened the garage to look at this car.
:coo1:

Well, after realizing I'm an idiot dickin around with that MR2, I sold it a couple weeks ago, paid some bills and bought a couple mustang parts while I was at it!!

Just got a call that my Team Z K member showed up today!!! Ended up going with the drop K, with standard length a arms, and SN95 ball joints were installed for no extra cost! Can't remember the exact specs of the coilover kit but I know they are 175lb springs, can't remember if they are 12" or 14" though.

I tried to call Team Z, but wasn't able to get a hold of them, so I might as well ask on here. Do I need to square the k member when installed using the plumb bobs, etc?? I can't remember if this is something required for ALL aftermarket k's or if it was just for some of the kits.

I'll try and snap a few pics tonight of the progress.:bigthumb

[5.0calypso93lx]

Well it's probably got a good two inches of dust on it :lol:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1139.jpg

Started tearing out the front suspension. Got the front H&R springs sold already, now just need to get rid of the a arms.

The quality of the K member is awesome. Welds look great and I can't believe how light the whole thing is:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1140.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1141.jpg

Hopefully get it all installed tomorrow :bigthumb Still waiting on the Strange coilover kit to be drop shipped.

[Rick93coupe]

What a great parts list you got going! ;)

[5.0calypso93lx]

What a great parts list you got going! ;)

I swear I'm not copying anyone :lol:

[2Kblacksleeper]

Nice project.

I hope to start mine this winter. I am doing the same thing but with my sn-95. I have a Garrett with very similar specs to the S-480 turbo.

If you dont mind can you pm me with what the machine work is running? I am trying to get an idea for mine. So you are useing stock crank, aftermarket rods and pistons correct.

What intake are you planning on running? The one on the builds sections on TTF was more of a long runner set up, I was thinking about doing a Victor set up or a TFS box. Would this not be too good on the street or?

Thanks for your time and info. I plan on keeeping up with this.

John

[5.0calypso93lx]

Nice project.

I hope to start mine this winter. I am doing the same thing but with my sn-95. I have a Garrett with very similar specs to the S-480 turbo.

If you dont mind can you pm me with what the machine work is running? I am trying to get an idea for mine. So you are useing stock crank, aftermarket rods and pistons correct.

What intake are you planning on running? The one on the builds sections on TTF was more of a long runner set up, I was thinking about doing a Victor set up or a TFS box. Would this not be too good on the street or?

Thanks for your time and info. I plan on keeeping up with this.

John

John, I'm not sure how much the machine work is going to be, honestly. They're still waiting on me to supply them with a set of high port heads. I'm going on vacation this next week, so hopefully I'll be able to pick up a set as soon as I get back and get them up there. I need to get some rockers too. BES wants to bolt them down and make sure all the clearances are ok with the custom cam.

I supplied them with the crank, block, pistons, flywheel, balancer and timing set. They are providing the rods and they're doing the cam, or spec'ing it out to whoever is going to be grinding the cam. They're also be going to be assembling the short block.

If anyone else has a guesstimate of what it's going to run me, PM me as well :lol:

I also plan on running the TFS-R box intake. After seeing the pinks car, the horsepower TV car and so many cars over on TTF running this intake with awesome results, that's what I'll be running. I'm just getting a little concerned with hood clearance and I hope it will fit with the drop k and drop mounts.

I honestly have no idea if the Box-R is good on the street or not. I'd imagine it would be fine for cruising around, but I'm sure it wouldn't be any good for a daily driver either.




I think I wanna go for this look on the engine bay :evilgrin:

http://image.mustang50magazine.com/f/9745532/m5lp_0807_04_z+1989_ford_mustang_lx+engine.jpg

[05yellowgt]

Are those Aerocatch hood pins on your car? How do you like them and how hard were they to install? I have a set for my hood but haven't gotten them installed yet.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Are those Aerocatch hood pins on your car? How do you like them and how hard were they to install? I have a set for my hood but haven't gotten them installed yet.

Haha yes they are. The reason I laugh is because Rick has been asking me for detailed pics of them for MONTHS now :lol:

I'll get some tonight when I'm working on the car.

I had some detailed pics during the whole process, but I don't know what happened to them. I taped off the entire area where I was cutting so the fiberglass wouldn't split or crack. I just used the templates that came with them, and positioned them on the hood where I wanted them, and used a dremel to cut the holes out.

Honestly, the underside of the hood likes like complete crap. There's just no good way to install them though, because of how you have to attach nuts on the bottom of each of the six screws.

I ran the rods up through the core support just like you would with any hood pin.

[05yellowgt]

That is what I am afraid of on my CF hood is that it is going to look like ass underneith as well as screwing it up. Having said that, I am taking it to a body shop to have them do it :) I'd appreciate any pics you could share.

[5.0calypso93lx]

That is what I am afraid of on my CF hood is that it is going to look like ass underneith as well as screwing it up. Having said that, I am taking it to a body shop to have them do it :) I'd appreciate any pics you could share.

Yea, I mean it's going to look like crap underneath unless they can do CF work and patch a panel underneath to match the rest of the weave. And if that ever happened you'd never be able to get them back out.

I just did some searching on my old cardomain account and don't have any pics up there either. I cannot remember for the life of me what site I used to host my pictures on....

Edit: Actually, I see that putfile is down now and I had a TON of pics on there.... That sucks...

[05yellowgt]

Well only the top of my hood is finished in CF. The underside is just a plastic liner type deal so I hope it will be ok. This hood is just really light and thin.

[2Kblacksleeper]

That engine bay is Sick..... As much as i would like mine would never turn out that way.

My car wont be a dd so i am not worried about the everyday aspect. I would like it to get around on the street well though.

Do you think 60lb injectors will be ok with the elimanitor pump mentioned above? I was thinking 60s would be ok, but i would rather be safe then sorry. I am making my parts list now and picking up what i can till i get everything ready do it all at once.

John

[5.0calypso93lx]

That engine bay is Sick..... As much as i would like mine would never turn out that way.

My car wont be a dd so i am not worried about the everyday aspect. I would like it to get around on the street well though.

Do you think 60lb injectors will be ok with the elimanitor pump mentioned above? I was thinking 60s would be ok, but i would rather be safe then sorry. I am making my parts list now and picking up what i can till i get everything ready do it all at once.

John

Really depends on what kind of power you want to make. I'm going to start out with the Siemens 72lb'ers which I believe are the largest high impedance injectors you can get right now. If those aren't enough, I guess I'll have to add a resistor box and run some bigger low impedance squirters.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Alright RICK, here's some pics lol!!!

I removed the factory hood bump stops and ran the supplied rods through those holes:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1148.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1149.jpg

I know the bottom of the hood looks like crap, but this was the only way to do it. I HATE old school hood pins, so this was really my only choice:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1150.jpg

Somehow two screws are missing?? Whatever, looks like I'll need to find some....

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1151.jpg

And this is how the sit on top of the hood:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1152.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1153.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Also got the new k member swapped in. I cannot believe how big of a difference it is. The weight alone has got to be a HUGE difference. I need to loosen everything up again and try and shift it around. The bolts on the passenger side were getting tight before the k member was actually flush with the frame:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1147.jpg

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1155.jpg

[USMCPONY]

Alright RICK, here's some pics lol!!!

I removed the factory hood bump stops and ran the supplied rods through those holes:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1148.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1149.jpg

I know the bottom of the hood looks like crap, but this was the only way to do it. I HATE old school hood pins, so this was really my only choice:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1150.jpg

Somehow two screws are missing?? Whatever, looks like I'll need to find some....

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1151.jpg

And this is how the sit on top of the hood:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1152.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1153.jpg


Haha, you make comments about me posting pics and you post pics of your car. Your a joke! I have been a member for 5 yrs and only posted pics of my car 3 times.

[1992MustangDW]

Car looks great.

[Maximus]

Haha, you make comments about me posting pics and you post pics of your car. Your a joke! I have been a member for 5 yrs and only posted pics of my car 3 times.

Its called a build thread and a fellow SBZ member asked to see pictures of the hood pins and how they are mounted.
I personally like build threads. It allows us to see the progress of the car, from non running/ non painted car to BAM! my car is finally done! (look at Keiths thread, amazing how far that coupe has come)

[5.0calypso93lx]

Its called a build thread and a fellow SBZ member asked to see pictures of the hood pins and how they are mounted.
I personally like build threads. It allows us to see the progress of the car, from non running/ non painted car to BAM! my car is finally done! (look at Keiths thread, amazing how far that coupe has come)

Hahahahahaha seriously...

[Rick93coupe]

Thanks for the pics James. I really like they way they look, but not so fond of how it looks on the underside. Not that it looks bad, but I would have liked to have installed them before paint! I appreciate it!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Thanks for the pics James. I really like they way they look, but not so fond of how it looks on the underside. Not that it looks bad, but I would have liked to have installed them before paint! I appreciate it!

I'm with ya, I think they look like crap underneath, but can't help that

[chris91]

Wonder if you were to paint the inside of the hole thats exposed black if it would help hide it some. Doesnt look THAT bad though. The pins only come in red I take it?

[5.0calypso93lx]

Wonder if you were to paint the inside of the hole thats exposed black if it would help hide it some. Doesnt look THAT bad though. The pins only come in red I take it?

Yep, only red, I know it sucks, but o well.



Got the k member kit installed last night and will get pics up later. I did have a couple questions though.

I know there are several people running the strange coilover kits. Did any of you have any issues with the spring hitting the brake line bracket at certain points when turning? I rotated the spindle back and forth through the full turning radius once I had everything bolted up and noticed that when turned all the inward(e.g. passenger side turned all the way left, driver side all the way right) the brake line was actually in between two of the coils on the spring.

Also, the steering shaft doesn't reach the knub coming out of the steering rack anymore? Is there any adjustment in the steering shaft? It's literally about an inch short now.

When I was installing the rack, I beat the little sleeves out that the bushings go on, and just slipped it over the posts on the k member. I'm assuming that's how to do it as the sleeves not only wouldn't fit inside or over the posts on the k member.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got the k member in permanently. I used MM's install instructions even though it's a pretty straightforward install. Here it is in place torque'd to spec:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1168.jpg

A arms are also in and torque'd. I went ahead and used some prothane bushing grease on the faces of the bushings that I had laying around from an old kit. Hopefully that will keep things somewhat quiet.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1169.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1170.jpg

I thought that the control arms had SN95 bushings in them, but turns out they're fox ball joints, but Team Z supplied spacers:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1174.jpg

Everything in and buttoned up except for the end links:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1179.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Here's where I'm a little concerned. this is the passenger side coilover and brake line. I'm not sure how much the spring compresses while driving, but I'm thinking this could be an issue:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1178.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1177.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1175.jpg

This is with the spindle turned all the way inward.

You guys think this will be ok?

[Lt. Dangle]

I would honestly loosen up that bracket, and spin/modify it to give a little more clearance, just as a precautionary measure.

Everything else looks good though, nice to see you getting closer to getting this thing on the road!

[Rick93coupe]

Ran into the same issue on mine, I'm moving mine for clearance.

[bkstang95]

Sweet! Starting to look good meng

[5.0calypso93lx]

Ran into the same issue on mine, I'm moving mine for clearance.

I just got off the phone with Dave at Team Z about that and he had a good point. Right now, the car is obviously in the air and not on the ground. It makes sense that when the car is back on the ground, that's going to pull the control arm upward and also move the spring farther from the body. I moved the brackets slightly so they wouldn't come in contact with the spring and I'll leave them like that for now until I can get the car on the ground and see how much room I really have.

I also asked about why the steering shaft no longer reached, and I wasn't aware of this, but the rack is actually dropped as well, so that's why it doesn't reach. I'm using offset rack bushings to move it up, but it's still not even close. Dave said they make steering shafts for this application, but that's another $169 I'm going to have to spend... Wasn't really planning on that but o well, it's supposed to give more clearance and be lightweight. It never ends lol.....

[5.0calypso93lx]

Sweet! Starting to look good meng

Thanks man! So when do I get a ride in that car??? :cool2:

[Rick93coupe]

I just got off the phone with Dave at Team Z about that and he had a good point. Right now, the car is obviously in the air and not on the ground. It makes sense that when the car is back on the ground, that's going to pull the control arm upward and also move the spring farther from the body. I moved the brackets slightly so they wouldn't come in contact with the spring and I'll leave them like that for now until I can get the car on the ground and see how much room I really have.

I also asked about why the steering shaft no longer reached, and I wasn't aware of this, but the rack is actually dropped as well, so that's why it doesn't reach. I'm using offset rack bushings to move it up, but it's still not even close. Dave said they make steering shafts for this application, but that's another $169 I'm going to have to spend... Wasn't really planning on that but o well, it's supposed to give more clearance and be lightweight. It never ends lol.....

I'm going to assume you bought the 1" drop K-member? That was actually one of the things I was concerned with, I knew I was going to use drop mounts and I was worried about rack/pan clearance. He told me then about having to relocated the rack mounts to give the pan more clearance. I didn't run into any problems with my steering shaft because I switched over to the flaming river setup and had to cut it down to make it fit.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I'm going to assume you bought the 1" drop K-member? That was actually one of the things I was concerned with, I knew I was going to use drop mounts and I was worried about rack/pan clearance. He told me then about having to relocated the rack mounts to give the pan more clearance. I didn't run into any problems with my steering shaft because I switched over to the flaming river setup and had to cut it down to make it fit.

Yep, it's the 1" drop. I thought it was just the motor mounting plates themselves on the k member that was dropped, not the entire thing. Can't change it now lol. That's ok, I'd rather have better clearances than be worried about buying a steering shaft.

So have you ever had the motor in the car?

[Rick93coupe]

Yep, it's the 1" drop. I thought it was just the motor mounting plates themselves on the k member that was dropped, not the entire thing. Can't change it now lol. That's ok, I'd rather have better clearances than be worried about buying a steering shaft.

So have you ever had the motor in the car?

Yeah, several times now. I had a bunch of small issues that were all self induced. I initially wanted to use drop solid mounts with the drop K-member and make that box intake fit under a 1.5" hood (351 based motor). Well, after asking 500 people whether they thought it would fit or not I decided I would find a way. Surprisingly enough, it fit with the drop k-member and solid mounts but just barely! It would have rubbed a little bit. After talking with Jason about my turbo kit, he suggested we switch it to a motor plate setup so there was a good support for the turbo. When that happened I was able to drop the motor down even further and push it back as far as it would go. Just for flavor I had another 3/8" taken off of the spacer that runs between the upper and lower. You'll see it all tomorrow, we should have it set in and bolted down before the sun goes down! :bigthumb

[bkstang95]

Thanks man! So when do I get a ride in that car??? :cool2:

I'll probly stop by the cruise-in at Dick's in tri-county tomorrow if you want to go.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I'll probly stop by the cruise-in at Dick's in tri-county tomorrow if you want to go.

Gotta work :mad: I need to start getting my thursdays picked up so I can come out again.

[bkstang95]

There is also something going on downtown on sunday too and possibly some races b4/after the cruise-in

[5.0calypso93lx]

So I've started to work on this car again. I picked up some BBS's off of Walter this weekend and threw them on so I could get the car moved over to the new garage. I snapped a few quick pics of them on the car. I think it will look really good once I get the car's ride height dialed in. They're 18x8.5's up front with 245/40/18's and 18x10's out back with 295/35/18's.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1332.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1329.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1327.jpg


Heads should hopefully be here by the weekend so I can get them up to Bischoff so they can start working the shortblock.

I also had a mishap with the steering shaft from Team Z not being the right one. The side that slips over the steering nub is too small and won't fit over. I'm not sure if different steering racks have different diameter knurled nubs or what. I'm going to be giving Dave a call today.

[OrangeStang04]

Looking good bud!! If you ever want to sell or trade them BBS' let a brotha know... lol

[cstreu1026]

Looks good, but it will look great once you get rid of the 4x4 stance!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Looking good bud!! If you ever want to sell or trade them BBS' let a brotha know... lol

Haha thanks man I appreciate it. I'm gonna hold onto these wheels. This is probably one of my top 3 wheel choices and Walter definitely hooked it up, so I'm definitely gonna keep em'.

[Pitbull1052]

looks awesome....... rims set it off too.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Looks good, but it will look great once you get rid of the 4x4 stance!

Yea, I'm gonna wait until I get everything else done and get the rear seat delete in the car before I make any changes now. I don't wanna cut the springs now and find out that with the added weight of the rear seat delete kit, that the rear sits too low.

[cstreu1026]

what springs are in it now?

[R825OH]

WOw thats some progress,how close is the motor??

[5.0calypso93lx]

what springs are in it now?

The rears are the H&R super sports. I figure with the MM extreme duty weight jacker control arms and the added weight of the rear seat delete kit, the rear will be very close to where I want it.

The front is the strange coilover kit.

[5.0calypso93lx]

WOw thats some progress,how close is the motor??

Ha, not close at all. Bischoff is waiting on me to get them the heads so they can check clearances, etc.

Thanks for the kind words everyone.

Also, heard back from Dave at Team Z. The steering shaft I have is for the flaming river manual rack I guess? Kind of annoying since I was never even asked what steering rack I had in the car. I just assumed he would figure it was the stock rack since he never asked? O well...

[1992MustangDW]

if there isnt a motor in it now. when you do put one in the stance will be killer!

[5.0calypso93lx]

These came in the mail today :D

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1357.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1358.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1359.jpg

They're TFS High Ports with Fox Lake 70cc chambers. Fresh from Trick Flow. They just had a valve job, new guides and new .600 lift springs.

Dropped them off at Bischoffs so hopefully the motor will start progressing now!!! Still need to find a set of 1.6 7/16" stud mount rockers.

Happened to be there when they had a 605" motor on the engine dyno that put down 1115hp!!!! Tony said they gained 65hp with a different set of rockers!!! :eek:

[mustang8998]

I've got a set of PBM 7/16 stud mounts, for sale.

http://www.stangbangerz.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51089

[331TwistedWedge]

Looks good fish lips, keep it rolling ... :bigthumb

[93hulk]

The wheels look killer James.

[NXcoupe]

I am putting 10.5's on the back of my vert. What's the backspacing on those wheels, any idea? I have always liked this car.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Thanks guys.

I'm not sure on the backspacing, but I do know that the offset on the rear is +20 and +24 up front. The rears are 10" wide and the fronts are 8.5".

[5.0calypso93lx]

How necessary are rocker arm stud girdles? Is RPM the determining factor? I don't plan on running this motor past 6400 rpm. I picked up some Scorpion platinum rockers and they don't have the locks which is something a stud girdle kit would come with.

Also, why do I see high port specific stud girdle kits? What's the difference?

[5.0calypso93lx]

Not too much going on right now, mainly just collecting parts and waiting on the motor. I did pick up some Scorpion platinum rockers which are on their way here now. I also drove up to Michigan friday night to pick this up:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1407.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1408.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1409.jpg

It's a Viper T-56 and I'm going to have it gone through. I know it needs an input shaft and a cluster gear. May do a few upgrades while it's being gone through, not 100% sure yet.

[NXcoupe]

How necessary are rocker arm stud girdles? Is RPM the determining factor? I don't plan on running this motor past 6400 rpm. I picked up some Scorpion platinum rockers and they don't have the locks which is something a stud girdle kit would come with.

Also, why do I see high port specific stud girdle kits? What's the difference?

Nah, stud girdles are for high rpm use, you are on the lower edge of the rpm where they would start to help. I should qualify this by saying that I am assuming you are using a hydraulic roller cam and you have seat pressures less than 160 at installed height and no more than 400 at lift. If that is the case, you really don't need a girdle, but it can't hurt. You need an inline setup, most manufacturers set them up to work on most inline heads. I sell the Probe units, you can see what Craig sells too. I use shaft mounts in most applications where a girdle would be used. What size rocker nuts do you need? are they 7/16? I am not sure if I have an extra set or not.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Nah, stud girdles are for high rpm use, you are on the lower edge of the rpm where they would start to help. I should qualify this by saying that I am assuming you are using a hydraulic roller cam and you have seat pressures less than 160 at installed height and no more than 400 at lift. If that is the case, you really don't need a girdle, but it can't hurt. You need an inline setup, most manufacturers set them up to work on most inline heads. I sell the Probe units, you can see what Craig sells too. I use shaft mounts in most applications where a girdle would be used. What size rocker nuts do you need? are they 7/16? I am not sure if I have an extra set or not.

I asked Tony about it today when I dropped the rockers off and he agreed that I wouldn't need a stud girdle for this application. Yes, they are 7/16" studs on the heads.

I am using a hydraulic roller cam but I have no idea what the seat pressures are. That's something I'll let BES figure out :lol:

Brian said they'd begin assembling everything next week.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Besides piecing together an entire fuel system with black everything, does anyone make a full black fuel setup for a fox? I'm going to run a Glenn's Performance sleeper fuel tank, but I want EVERYTHING else to be BLACK. This is the look I'm going for (I posted it earlier in the thread also):

http://image.mustang50magazine.com/f/9745532/m5lp_0807_04_z+1989_ford_mustang_lx+engine.jpg

So I want black rails, regulator, lines, fittings, and anything else that can be seen to be black.

I'd really like to have this kit in black, http://www.glennsperformance.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=61 , but I'm not sure if the is enough fuel system for me. I want to do this right the first time, so I'm not buying parts twice.


The car is going to be boosted, fuel injected, and run on E85 so I know i'm going to need quite a healthy fuel system.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Haven't really done anything with the car recently, mainly just making my parts pile bigger and waiting on the engine.

Picked this up a little while ago. Brand new AEM EMS, AEM Boost Control Solenoid and a GM 3 bar MAP sensor:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1412.jpg



I've also began piecing together my autometer nexus cluster setup. Picking up gauges when I find them cheap on forums, ebay, etc.

[Paul408Notch]

Haven't really done anything with the car recently, mainly just making my parts pile bigger and waiting on the engine.

Picked this up a little while ago. Brand new AEM EMS, AEM Boost Control Solenoid and a GM 3 bar MAP sensor:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1412.jpg



I've also began piecing together my autometer nexus cluster setup. Picking up gauges when I find them cheap on forums, ebay, etc.

If I knew you were wanting to buy an AEM, I'd have sold you mine. My gadget ADD has me wanting to move on to something else.

[5.0calypso93lx]

If I knew you were wanting to buy an AEM, I'd have sold you mine. My gadget ADD has me wanting to move on to something else.

PM me with how much you were thinking.

How did you like this EMS?

[5.0calypso93lx]

Picked up a true HID conversion for the car tonight. They've already been installed in a set of clear housing headlights. I'm going to swap the lenses on these with my smoked lenses. I'm not sure if this is the exact placement I want the projectors to be in the housing, but I do like how far back they are. I'm guessing the header panel will need clearancing for it to work like this though.

These draw less power than the stockers too :bigthumb

This is the kit: http://store.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=141&osCsid=f232c7ffd1a746ca746eec3ef9b489e8

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1440.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1441.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1442.jpg

[NXcoupe]

Besides piecing together an entire fuel system with black everything, does anyone make a full black fuel setup for a fox? I'm going to run a Glenn's Performance sleeper fuel tank, but I want EVERYTHING else to be BLACK. This is the look I'm going for (I posted it earlier in the thread also):

So I want black rails, regulator, lines, fittings, and anything else that can be seen to be black.

I'd really like to have this kit in black, http://www.glennsperformance.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=61 , but I'm not sure if the is enough fuel system for me. I want to do this right the first time, so I'm not buying parts twice.


The car is going to be boosted, fuel injected, and run on E85 so I know i'm going to need quite a healthy fuel system.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Well, I have all black on my vert except where I ran braided line, and then it has black hose ends. I think a trick setup would be the new braided black line that works like braided steel, it's not pushlock, run trick flow rails(black) trick flow regulator(black) and the trick flow hose ends(black) with the new braided black hose and I think it would look great.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Well, I have all black on my vert except where I ran braided line, and then it has black hose ends. I think a trick setup would be the new braided black line that works like braided steel, it's not pushlock, run trick flow rails(black) trick flow regulator(black) and the trick flow hose ends(black) with the new braided black hose and I think it would look great.

Which braided line are you referring to? Is it this kind of stuff:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-632143/

[dsmawd350]

Quit buying HID's ricer and get this thing running. you only have a few months before you have a date with a Trans Am :)

[NXcoupe]

Which braided line are you referring to? Is it this kind of stuff:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-632143/

Yep, that's the stuff! It looks great looking stuff, but kind of pricey. I used pushlock stuff too on the lines under the car, but wish I could have swung the braided stuff.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Quit buying HID's ricer and get this thing running. you only have a few months before you have a date with a Trans Am :)

Haha, everyting on my end as far as the engine goes is out of my hands, so it's just a waiting game as of right now. If I find a good deal on a part I need/want for the car, I'm not gonna pass it up. I'd be tickled to death to have the car running in a few months, let alone boosted.:flipoff:

[5.0calypso93lx]

Woot, speak of the devil, motors done! :evilgrin:

[Maximus]

Very cool!!

Do a write up on the headlights when you get them installed.:bigthumb

[5.0calypso93lx]

Very cool!!

Do a write up on the headlights when you get them installed.:bigthumb

Will do! This is a great read and where I got the idea from(as far as the setup goes, not me actually doing the work :lol:):

http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=809200&highlight=how+hids+right+way

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got a little done today. Went out in the freezing cold and pulled the 8.8. I bought an Eaton 31 spline Posi diff from mfoss on here and am going to have it installed. Also gonna have the axle tubes welded up and 9" ends welded on while I have it out.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1485.jpg

Also picked up the Glenns Performance sleeper tank off Mike. I was going to remove my tank but it's completely full of gas and I need to get it siphoned out somehow. I also need to get the fuel line disconnect tool for the fuel lines going to the fuel filter.

Looks to be a very well made tank. I pulled the sender and the return out to look down in there, but can't really see much:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1486.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Thanks to Jim, got some -16 AN fittings welded onto my radiator for the braided hose instead of rubber hoses and got a -10 oil drain welded onto the oil pan. Welds look great, thanks again!

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1490.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1491.jpg

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1492.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1494.jpg

[dsmawd350]

sweet! whats the reason for the extension on the radiator fitting. instead of just the fitting right on the radiator?

[5.0calypso93lx]

sweet! whats the reason for the extension on the radiator fitting. instead of just the fitting right on the radiator?

That's just the stock extension that was there for the stock radiator hose setup.

After Walter's vacation in the grass, I figured why not :lol:

[dsmawd350]

yeah I've got all 16 braided AN stuff on my car too, but i cut all the stock waternecks off flush to the end tanks and welded the AN fitting straight on the radiator. Just curious, personal preference think it looks cleaner

[5.0calypso93lx]

yeah I've got all 16 braided AN stuff on my car too, but i cut all the stock waternecks off flush to the end tanks and welded the AN fitting straight on the radiator. Just curious, personal preference think it looks cleaner

I didn't even think to specify, but I think it looks fine. O well :lol:

[draggin50]

What a build thread! Looks great and cant wait to see more. Good luck and keep it coming.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I'm having a tough time figuring out which timing cover I need and which one I have. I'm running a 71' 351w block, but I have a stock FRPP replacement water pump for a fox mustang that I want to use.

Here is the timing cover I have:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1500.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1499.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1503.jpg

I also removed the old gasket from the mounting surface where the water pump bolts up. How clean does the mating surface need to be on the timing cover side? Also, if you look at the bottom of the picture, some of the flat mating surface is kind of ground off or wore off from whatever. It was like that when I got it. Think this will cause any leaks?

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1507.jpg

Here is my water pump for reference also:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1498.jpg



http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/5-0l-talk/43593d1209496010-there-any-difference-between-years-timing-covers-ford-timing-cover-chart.jpg



I think as long as the timing cover bolts up to my block ok, then I should be fine as the timing cover I have appears to be the middle right timing cover in the diagram above. My water pump is for that style timing cover, so from a water pump to timing cover perspective, I should be fine.



I guess what I'm thrown off about, is that the middle right timing cover does not say it is a reverse rotation water pump timing cover, yet isn't that the cover that is on 86-93 mustangs? Aren't all 86-93 mustangs reverse rotation water pumps??

[5.0calypso93lx]

Another issue I think I may have is my bellhousing and clutch fork. It doesn't appear that the clutch fork extends far enough out of the hole in the bellhousing for proper clearance for the clutch cable. Unless the hole in the bellhousing pretty much directly ahead of where the clutch cable would route from the clutch fork is a clutch cable alignment hole, I think the cable will rub the bellhousing if it doesn't go through the bellhousing:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1504.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1505.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1506.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

I finally picked up the engine from BES yesterday. This is pretty much the last major piece I need for the car.

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs470.ash1/25800_350395211846_736166846_4284801_373145_n.jpg
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs470.ash1/25800_350397086846_736166846_4284802_1954914_n.jpg

I started fitting a few parts that I had laying around just to make sure everything will work and that I have the right parts.

The first issue I ran into is with the oil pump pickup stud. It's on the middle main and you can see it here:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1515.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1516.jpg

The problem is that it is not even close to clearing the oil pan. It's hitting right in the middle of the pan and it's actually the bottom of the pan where it hits, not a baffle. You can see in this picture how far of the pan is from seating on the block. I'm not really sure what to do at this point. The stud is part of the main stud and I think if there is a shorter stud available, I'm not sure if it will mess up the bearing and the clearances if I just remove that one stud and put a shorter one on:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1512.jpg

I still need to do some research on which gasket to use with this pan. I already have the Felpro 1827, but it's a multi piece gasket and I think I remember hearing problems with multi piece pan gaskets.

I'm not a huge fan of the gray block, but I didn't specify and they didn't ask. It could be worse, but I would have chosen black if I had the chance. O well, it's done with now.

The next problem I'm worried about is the motor mounts. They don't specify on the mounts themselves which is the left or right side. It does matter because the stud that goes through the k member are on opposite sides when you put each mount on the same side. The other big issue is that on one of the mounts, the little raised "guide" is to the side of the stud rather than below it. I'm not really sure how these are supposed to fit at this point:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1513.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1514.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

I think I understand how the oil pump, pickup and shaft go on. I think I'm going to wait to pick up a distributor until I do the final install though. I need to find out what the oil pump and pickup bolts need to be torqued to and whether I should install them dry or not.

The other big concern for me right now is the heads. I had planned on running Victor Jr's way back when I first started planning this engine build, but was actually recomended by Tony to run a set of high ports. Well when I picked the engine up, Brian told me that with a 64cc head like the Victor Jr's, that my compression would be 8.3:1 with the pistons I have and with a thicker .064 head gasket. The problem is, is that I'm almost positive that my High Ports are 70cc chamber heads. Running them as is would be way too low of compression I think.

Brian said he would cc the heads for me to see what I'm working with. I would think it would be better than the compression be closer to mid to upper 8's. If the heads are 70cc then they'll need to be milled. The problem i'm worried about is say if they shave .010 off, won't that affect the custom pushrod length and the ptv clearance?

[Gearhead]

I have those same motor mounts, on one side the little guide goes into a slot or hole on the k member, and the other side I believe it doesn't (with a stock k-member). The easiest way to figure it out would be to take off the motor mounts and set them in your k member, and then you'll figure it out easy. You should have it so that the greatest surface area of the motor mount is against the greatest surface area of the k member. Once you swap them side to side you should be able to figure it out easy...

[5.0calypso93lx]

I have those same motor mounts, on one side the little guide goes into a slot or hole on the k member, and the other side I believe it doesn't (with a stock k-member). The easiest way to figure it out would be to take off the motor mounts and set them in your k member, and then you'll figure it out easy. You should have it so that the greatest surface area of the motor mount is against the greatest surface area of the k member. Once you swap them side to side you should be able to figure it out easy...

I actually did try that with one of the mounts and still couldn't figure it out. No matter which side I put it on it still wasn't even close. I do have a Team Z k member though. I'll take the other side off today and see if I can't figure something out. I'll probably give Dave a call on monday though.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Didn't have much luck with the motor mounts. Pulled them both off and I can get one side to fit where the stud is directly below the alignment pin, but the other side just makes no sense. I'm going to call Dave tomorrow and see what's up. Gotta pull the timing cover back off too, stupid ARP bolt kit.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Didn't have much luck with the motor mounts. Pulled them both off and I can get one side to fit where the stud is directly below the alignment pin, but the other side just makes no sense. I'm going to call Dave tomorrow and see what's up. Gotta pull the timing cover back off too, stupid ARP bolt kit.

Dave at Team Z said that the alignment stubs need to be ground off on both mounts. Kinda dumb that they even put them there since so many seem to have the same problem.

Ugh, I removed the main stud that was too long to clear the pan and am going to take it to BES tonight to get it swapped. For shits n' giggles, I decided to drop the pan on to see how it fit. Not good. It's MUCH closer than before, but if I stand behind or in front of the engine, I can rock it from left to right about a 1/4".

Any good methods to check and see where it might be hitting? I don't even have a girdle and it's a stock 2 bolt main block. This thing is supposed to clear 4 bolt mains on all 5!!!....

[Rick93coupe]

On your oil pan issue, make sure you keep in mind that the final clearance is going to be with a good gasket, hopefully the one with the little steele sleeves that keep you from crushing it too much. I only mention it because I didn't see a gasket with atleast one of the pictures I looked at.

[5.0calypso93lx]

On your oil pan issue, make sure you keep in mind that the final clearance is going to be with a good gasket, hopefully the one with the little steele sleeves that keep you from crushing it too much. I only mention it because I didn't see a gasket with atleast one of the pictures I looked at.

Yea, the gasket isn't installed yet, but there's still a 1/4" of gap when it's correctly positioned and I can just feel it's hitting something. I've got a Felpro 1827 multi piece gasket. If I slide the pan back about an inch or two towards the rear of the motor, it fits with the block flush so something is definitely contacting the pan.

I'm also waiting on BES Brian to call me back, the heads are the 70cc chamber versions so I think my compression is actually going to be too low. He's figuring out the numbers again based on the cc test and we'll see what he comes up with. If the heads have to be milled, I'm just dropping everything back off and going to have them assemble the complete longblock. I don't have the tools or the knowledge to make all the checks/changes if the heads need to be milled.

[Rick93coupe]

I'm not familiar with the multi piece gasket, but from experience, you want to run a 1 piece oil pan gasket. To find the clearance issue, put a dab of wheel bearing grease on the high spots and see where it leaves a mark on the pan. Wherever that is, just clearance it a little. You'd be suprised how little you need to adjust it for things to clear. Don't forget to check the clearance between the pickup and pan. It's crucial!

[5.0calypso93lx]

I'm not familiar with the multi piece gasket, but from experience, you want to run a 1 piece oil pan gasket. To find the clearance issue, put a dab of wheel bearing grease on the high spots and see where it leaves a mark on the pan. Wherever that is, just clearance it a little. You'd be suprised how little you need to adjust it for things to clear. Don't forget to check the clearance between the pickup and pan. It's crucial!

That's another area I was up in the air about. Why do you prefer the 1 piece gasket?

I know the Moroso pan recomends a 1 piece gasket, but from what I've researched on hardcore50, most guys are completely against the 1 piece gasket.

That's a good idea for checking the pan too. I will definitely do that if I end up putting the rest of the motor together. :bigthumb

[Rick93coupe]

I've never had a 1 piece leak, but I've had the 3 piece setup (old school) setups leak. IMO a solid gasket has less chance of leaking than a setup that has breaks in it and needs permatex to join them.
On the oil pan, you don't have to use grease, but it works well, you can use a dab of rtv or whatever you have laying around, just so that it will leave a mark. You can also set the pan on and just tap all around with a rubber mallet and look for marks that need clearancing.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I've never had a 1 piece leak, but I've had the 3 piece setup (old school) setups leak. IMO a solid gasket has less chance of leaking than a setup that has breaks in it and needs permatex to join them.
On the oil pan, you don't have to use grease, but it works well, you can use a dab of rtv or whatever you have laying around, just so that it will leave a mark. You can also set the pan on and just tap all around with a rubber mallet and look for marks that need clearancing.

Have a part number for the 1 piece gasket? What kind of pan do you have on your car?

That's also a great idea!

[Rick93coupe]

I don't have the part #, but autozone carries them, just tell them you need a 1 piece for something like a 94 lightning. It should be rubber and there are sleeves built into it where the bolts go through to keep you from crushing the gasket. I think my pan is a Moroso unit.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Talked to Brian and with a .046 head gasket and my 70cc heads that is going to put me at 8.0:1 compression. Definitely lower than I was hoping for but Cometic makes a .040 compressed HG that I'm going to run. I know it probably won't even help bump the compression ratio .1. So this thing is going to be an absolute turd on the street NA haha.

Thanks Rick, I agree and I'll try that gasket.

[5.0calypso93lx]

This car is going to fight me till the end lol.

I got the pan back and got some arp oil pan studs and the felpro 1 piece gasket.

I started to mock everything up again to see how well it all fit. The gasket is pretty thick so it looks like it's going to take up quite a bit of space. I couldn't tighten down the rear two studs because my 3/8 drive socket will not fit into the two holes at the rear of the pan to get the nuts over the studs. I need to pick up a longer 1/4 drive extension so I can get them on and test fit them.

Two of the studs aren't even being used with this pan though?? I had to pull two of them out towards the front because there aren't even any holes in the pan for them to go through. I'm not sure if that's going to be an issue or not, I'm going to call Moroso on monday. I had to massage the pan to get the nut on the front right stud also.

I did get the rear main cap and bearing back on.

I started to test fit the alternator bracket and power steering bracket. Are the spacers that come with both kits "cut to fit"?? I couldn't get a single one on either kits to line up correctly. All are quite a bit too long and will need to be cut down to fit. At least they're not short though.

This is with a stock fox timing cover and water pump and I had stock brackets on this car fine?

[ibstrokin]

Did you check the clearance between the oil pump pickup and the pan? As Rick said, this is supposed to be crucial. Talk to your engine builder for proper clearance size.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Did you check the clearance between the oil pump pickup and the pan? As Rick said, this is supposed to be crucial. Talk to your engine builder for proper clearance size.

I have not. I'm mocking everything up right now dry just to see if it even fits lol.

I will give Brian a call and see what he says about it.

What should I be looking for specifically? Just how big of a gap there is between the bottom of the pan and the screen on the pickup?

[Gearhead]

I have not. I'm mocking everything up right now dry just to see if it even fits lol.

I will give Brian a call and see what he says about it.

What should I be looking for specifically? Just how big of a gap there is between the bottom of the pan and the screen on the pickup?

shoot for about 3/8 to 1/2 inch between bottom of pan and screen

[5.0calypso93lx]

Worked on the car for a bit tonight. I wanted to test fit the pan with the newer one piece felpro gasket and wanted to check the pickup to pan clearance.

I sent an email to Bill at Moroso with these pictures to see if this is ok to go ahead and run. I'm a little more comfortable now running it as this is one thick gasket and it's got a big, uniform gap all the way around the pan. I know the pan fits flush at the front half of the engine and around the timing cover, so the gap is strictly from the gasket.

In these pictures, I was also checking for the oil pickup clearance, so all studs are torqued down to 20lb/ft per ARP's spec.

Keep in mind, I was still mocking the pan up so there is no silicon laid down yet. If confirmed that this is ok to run as is, I'll be laying a bead of silicon down.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1593.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1594.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1595.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1596.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1597.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

Here is how I checked for pickup to pan clearance:

I put a piece of plastic over the pickup and laid the putty down at each corner.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1592.jpg


I then installed the pump, pickup and pan and torqued it down and came up with:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1600.jpg


Well within spec which I found out from Moroso is 1/4" to 3/8".

I also figured out how the power steering and alternator brackets go:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1598.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1591.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1589.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1588.jpg

There's really only one way they can go. Just gotta mess around with them for a bit until the fit. I do need to pick up one bolt for the alt bracket as the only ones I had were either too long or too short.

Hopefully everything is ok with the pan and I can pull everything back off, clean everything really good, silicon everything, install the water pump gasket and put everything back on and button up the bottom end.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got my Cometic head gaskets in thursday and got them coated with the permatex copper spray and got the heads on:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1615.jpg

I got the lifters and pushrods installed and started to put my lower intake on. That's where I ran into problems:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1617.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1618.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1619.jpg

The intake doesn't even touch the block, front or rear. I'm using 1262R gaskets and they are really thick. Even if I went with a paper thin gasket, it's still not going to make the intake sit flush with the block like it needs to.

I'm not really sure what to do at this point. Guess I'll research around and see what my options are.

[Rick93coupe]

It's actually not supposed to touch the block in the front and rear. That's what the old cork gaskets were for. Everyone threw those out and used silicone like you did. How do the ports line up?

[5.0calypso93lx]

It's actually not supposed to touch the block in the front and rear. That's what the old cork gaskets were for. Everyone threw those out and used silicone like you did. How do the ports line up?

It's too much though. The intake isn't even touching the silicon?? If I got some thinner gaskets it might, but it wouldn't compress completely.

How can I check port alignment? Just look down the intake runners?

[Rick93coupe]

Looking at the pictures, it doesn't look like you have a mis-alignment between the face of the heads and the intake. Meaning when it's sitting on there, the face of the intake looks like it's sitting flat on the face of the head/gasket without any gaps there. The only gap there (as it looks in the pictures) is at the front and rear. I don't know if you have it torqued down or not, but the gasket will compress some and close the gap.
You can look with a flashlight on some intakes and see the alignment, you can also just run a screwdriver or something over the transition if it's bolted down and see if there is a huge step there.

Scrape off the silicone and use a bigger bead till it does touch. Any excess will either push out, or in slightly. Either way there will be plenty of time for it to setup before it's fired up, so you don't have to worry about it hurting anything.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Looking at the pictures, it doesn't look like you have a mis-alignment between the face of the heads and the intake. Meaning when it's sitting on there, the face of the intake looks like it's sitting flat on the face of the head/gasket without any gaps there. The only gap there (as it looks in the pictures) is at the front and rear. I don't know if you have it torqued down or not, but the gasket will compress some and close the gap.
You can look with a flashlight on some intakes and see the alignment, you can also just run a screwdriver or something over the transition if it's bolted down and see if there is a huge step there.

I tightened down the four studs at each corner and snapped those pics. That's about as tight as it's going to get and there is still a lot of space to make up. I'm pretty sure these gaskets are way huge and overkill anyway, they were much bigger than the ports on the heads, didn't check them against the lower intake. I've got some 1250's in the garage I might check and see how close they are.

What should the gap be between the lower intake and the block? I'm guessing mine is near an 1/8"!

[Gearhead559]

how due the ports not line up.. looks like that intake will need milled some to get it to match up..

and no, it should not be down on the block all the way

[dsmawd350]

I got him squared away. He check the port alignment and everything looked great the way it sits. So I told him just to lay a big thick bead of black silcone in there. Being that its a boosted motor I also had him drill a few small holes partway through the sealing surface of the intake manifold front and back. This will give the silcone some holes to seep up into and get a hold to keep it from blowing out if it sees excess crankcase pressure

[Walter]

I got him squared away. He check the port alignment and everything looked great the way it sits. So I told him just to lay a big thick bead of black silcone in there. Being that its a boosted motor I also had him drill a few small holes partway through the sealing surface of the intake manifold front and back. This will give the silcone some holes to seep up into and get a hold to keep it from blowing out if it sees excess crankcase pressure



Seems like a good idea.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I got him squared away. He check the port alignment and everything looked great the way it sits. So I told him just to lay a big thick bead of black silcone in there. Being that its a boosted motor I also had him drill a few small holes partway through the sealing surface of the intake manifold front and back. This will give the silcone some holes to seep up into and get a hold to keep it from blowing out if it sees excess crankcase pressure

Worked out nice. Once I get the manifold torqued down to spec, it also came down quite a bit further than when I had originally taken the pics.

Studs in and gaskets in place:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1621.jpg

One of the rails where I drilled the two small holes like Chad mentioned:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1622.jpg

And torqued down:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1623.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1625.jpg



I had originally planned on running a PCV valve in the stock location until I could get a nice valve cover, catch can and braided hose setup. Looks like I'm going to have to do that now instead of later since the hole in the back of the manifold is plugged off and there is no way to get the plug out from the bottom either:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1624.jpg

And how I left it last night:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1626.jpg

The other Chad(redfirepearlgt) stopped by today to help me index the bellhousing. Unfortunately, the only thing we got done technically, was torque the balancer down :lol:

We started by mounting up the flywheel and torquing it just for me to end up remembering that the mcleod bellhousing front plate has to go on before the clutch and flywheel. We pulled the flywheel back off and starting fitting up the plate.

That's when we found out the oil drain on the back of the oil pan is not clearing the plate, and is not only preventing the plate from fitting over the 2nd dowel in the back of the block, but the plate should fit up tight against the block once it's tightened down and this won't be able to happen either with the oil pan drain where it is.

I guess I'll be giving Moroso a call tomorrow and to see what they recomend.

I might end up having to trade this bellhousing for a stocker for now. I really don't need this SFI one and the whole trans setup is temporary anyway.

Ugh, it's just one thing after another...

Thanks for stopping out Chad, I really appreciate the help!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Steering shaft is all done:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1627.jpg

I ended up trading Mike my Mcleod bellhousing for a stock aluminum bellhousing. It has a lot more room near the bottom where the oil drain is on the pan.

All I have left to do at this point is to get the drivetrain in:

-flywheel
-clutch
-fork
-bellhousing
-grind tabs off of motor mounts

Then I can drop the motor in for good. After that, I need to get tires and have them mounted on the wheels, install the shocks, order the headers and then it'll be going out to Jimmy's for some exhaust work.

[5.0calypso93lx]

I'm starting to think this car is cursed....

I got everything installed except for the actual trans when I noticed the clutch alignment tool was a little stiff when I removed it after torquing down the pressure plate. I pulled everything back off to check it out. Everything looked fine, so I installed the pressure plate again, began torquing the bolts to 35ft/lb's and that's when the bolt just kept on spinning.... Pulled the pressure plate back off to find the threads pulled right out...

Anyone know a good machine shop to do a helicoil??? Haha, this car is going to kill me one day.

[Walter]

Just do it yourself, its like 10bux.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Just do it yourself, its like 10bux.

Can you get one at any parts store? I'm going to dig around and see what I find. Maybe I'll give it a shot.

Edit: Looks like you need special tools like the helicoil specific tap? Not sure this is something I can do.

[Walter]

Can you get one at any parts store? I'm going to dig around and see what I find. Maybe I'll give it a shot.

Edit: Looks like you need special tools like the helicoil specific tap? Not sure this is something I can do.

Kits come with drill bit, tap, coil install tool and a few coils. All auto parts stores have em.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Kits come with drill bit, tap, coil install tool and a few coils. All auto parts stores have em.

OK, I'll look around tonight. Thanks and I really do want to give this engine plate back lol! That will mean that the drivetrain is in!

[Walter]

That plate adds 10rwhp just so u know. lol

[5.0calypso93lx]

That plate adds 10rwhp just so u know. lol

Is that why you want it back so bad?? :lol:

Dropped the flywheel off yesterday to get fixed. Should have it back soon.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got my Team Z upper and lower control arms this past week. The look to be great quality pieces and after speaking with Dave, these are the control arms he recomended for my goals.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1628.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1629.jpg

I got them installed to the body. Still building the rear end. I still need to order the axles for it, then it will be ready to be put back together.

I can finally give Walter his engine plate back :lol:

I helicoiled the flywheel. It was much easier than I thought it was going to be. After I got the pressure plate torqued down, the trans slid right in.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1630.jpg

This car looks weird with a motor in it! :lol:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1631.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1632.jpg


With the drop k member and ES motor mounts, the front sump of the oil pan is resting on the sway bar. I guess I'm going to have to remove it completely. Maybe someone makes a thinner sway bar? Right now I have a Steeda in the car and it's a pretty thick piece. I won't really be able to tell how low the motor sits in the car until I get the sway bar off as the driver side mount isn't even seated against the k member yet. Oil pan looks like it's going to have plenty of clearance over the steering rack.

The main things I still need are the axles, tires, upper intake mani and exahust. Hopefully things should move fairly quickly from here.

Does anyone know what size nuts to use for the motor mount stud that goes through the k member?

[BlazinEagle]

what about using a 4cyl sway bar? Is the car going to be used for twisties or the strip? if it is used at the strip then go with a 4cyl but if not then get maybe a custom chromoly one?

[mike94stang]

nice build man, you'll be happy w/ the windsor, I did it a few years ago and havent looked back, 8 to 1 is low, but keep in mind that motor was probably only 8.8 to 1 stock, so it'll be ok, are you goin single or dual turbos?

[5.0calypso93lx]

what about using a 4cyl sway bar? Is the car going to be used for twisties or the strip? if it is used at the strip then go with a 4cyl but if not then get maybe a custom chromoly one?

It's definitely not for the twisties, but it's not a strictly strip car either. I'm going for about 85-90% street car.

I'm going to try and run without the sway bar at all for now and see what it feels like. I know how it felt before with it, so I'm interested to see how big of a difference there will be without one.

[5.0calypso93lx]

nice build man, you'll be happy w/ the windsor, I did it a few years ago and havent looked back, 8 to 1 is low, but keep in mind that motor was probably only 8.8 to 1 stock, so it'll be ok, are you goin single or dual turbos?

I'm not too worried about it at this point as I know it will be safe and hopefully reliable, and that's what I want. It will be a single car.

[facemelter71]

Sway bar is gone from mine.Im not to worried about it.

[mustangboy]

James I was running between 110 and 115 and the car felt fime without the sway bar

[5.0calypso93lx]

Yea, for the time being, I'm just going to remove it altogether and see what the car feels like.

I called and spoke with Maximum Motorsports tech because they have the relocation kit that moves the sway bar mounting point either .75" or 1.5" forward. The problem is that this kit is designed for K members like theirs and the Griggs piece that actually move the control arms forward as well as the end link attachment point on the control arm.

The guy said that it wouldn't do me any good moving the sway bar forward while using the stock end link attachment points.

Maybe I'll see if KDoe can engineer me up a custom front sway bar one day to work if I don't like how the car feels.

Either way, next time the motor comes out, I will be swapping to a Canton pan. Way too many problems with the Moroso pan and it's getting REALLY frustrating. Maybe the Canton will give me a little more clearance up front?

[5.0calypso93lx]

Big thanks goes out to Joe Palmer for working some of his wiring magic on the car. Here's a few before pictures:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1633.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1634.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1635.jpg

And what it looks like now:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1638.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1639.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1640.jpg

Still need to get a Mark VIII fan and have him wire that up as well as make a decision on whether or not to mount the battery in the hatch now or later.

I'm still trying to find out whether or not the AEM has a fan control feature built in or not. I'm hoping it does so I don't have to buy a DCcontroller to run the Mark fan.

The only snag I have right now is that the crank pulley is visibly further out than the other pulleys, alternator, water pump and power steering. I know the picture isn't straight on but it looks that bad in person also:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1641.jpg

[quik lx]

No problem dude!

BTW move the battery now, so we can move the coil and starter relay right outta sight.:bigthumb

[5.0calypso93lx]

No problem dude!

BTW move the battery now, so we can move the coil and starter relay right outta sight.:bigthumb

Yea, I think I'm gonna go ahead and do that now. I just gotta buy that rear seat delete now that I was tellin' you about plus that Taylor kit.

This is the rear seat delete kit I was telling you about:

http://www.kdezines.com/MustangParts/RearSeatDeleteKits/1987-1993Mustangs/19871993MustangHatchbackRearSeatDeleteKit

I was actually flipping through a mustang mag and found this new kit though:

http://www.rearseatdelete.com/mustang/87-93hatchback/rear.jpg

I like the K dezines kit better aesthetically, but I like the price of the 2nd kit.

Either way, it's an extra $4-500 :(


Did you ever find out what the gray wire with yellow tracer was on the passenger side shock tower?

[bkstang95]

Making some great progress James! Engine bay looks great!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Making some great progress James! Engine bay looks great!

Thanks man! Now if I can just get this turbo sold I can buy my axles and get it over to Jims!

[quik lx]

Did you ever find out what the gray wire with yellow tracer was on the passenger side shock tower?

Not yet, I gotta find my fuel injection book I was telling you about. I havent seen it since the move. Its gotta be in the attic above the garage.:mad::mad:

[atbracn]

joe is a wiring freak!!! looks good buddy.

[NXcoupe]

With the drop k member and ES motor mounts, the front sump of the oil pan is resting on the sway bar. I guess I'm going to have to remove it completely. Maybe someone makes a thinner sway bar? Right now I have a Steeda in the car and it's a pretty thick piece. I won't really be able to tell how low the motor sits in the car until I get the sway bar off as the driver side mount isn't even seated against the k member yet. Oil pan looks like it's going to have plenty of clearance over the steering rack.

The main things I still need are the axles, tires, upper intake mani and exahust. Hopefully things should move fairly quickly from here.

Does anyone know what size nuts to use for the motor mount stud that goes through the k member?

Just use a block of aluminum, however thick you need the sway bar down to clear the oil pan, space it down, use longer retainer bolts where the sway bar bushing Uclamps go onto the frame. I have seen this done before and it worked.
As for your balancer issue, seems the balancer isn't on all the way, or you have a defective balancer. Not sure?

Hope this helps.

[blue5.8]

hey my name is jim and i finally became a board member and i have been working on something similar to you for the last year 351 swap and i hear your the go to guy?

[5.0calypso93lx]

I've just completed the swap and I'll help where I can but there have been MANY who have done this before me, including many on this board. Just lemme know what ya need.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Painted my 99' Cobra wheels that I had laying around.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1654.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1655.jpg

It's just the typical graphite that autozone sells. Definitely not perfect but they were cheap and these are temporary wheels anyway.

I've got a big move coming up so progress is happening pretty slow at this point. I've got to get the car back on the ground and to it's new home by the end of the month. It'll be cool having two stangs in the garage next to each other

[dsmawd350]

both in pieces and not running :lol:

[5.0calypso93lx]

both in pieces and not running :lol:

Wait, what? :lol:

[5.0calypso93lx]

Had this stuff for a while, just never got around to taking pictures. Picked up a Wilwood rear disc brake kit PN# 140-2118b. It's got big ol' 12.19" rear rotors that are multipiece rotors and are surprisingly light. The calipers are dynalite 4 piston calipers and it's all for the big new style 9" ends that are welded onto the 8.8.

Also got my custom Moser axles. There stock fox width, 5x4.5 and already have the bearings pressed on.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1671.jpg

I'm dropping the tires off to get them mounted on the wheels tomorrow and the rear end should be done by next week so I can get it back under the car and get it rolling to move to the new location. I'm ready to see how it sits with the drivetrain in the car.

[bkstang95]

both in pieces and not running :lol:

not gonna lie, I LOL'd :lol:

[5.0calypso93lx]

Rear end is done ! :cool1:

I'll be installing the axles, brakes, complete rear end and springs back in the car tonight so I can get the car mobile again and moved to the new house. It'll have to come back out to get painted with Por15 again though :(

I'm excited to see what the car is going to look like at almost full weight and ride height. Right now the coilovers are bottomed out so I could get the taller 14" springs installed without a spring compressor. I'm hoping it's slammed in the front! :smokin:

Pics to come!

[facemelter71]

What weight springs you going with?

[5.0calypso93lx]

What weight springs you going with?

Currently, they're 175's.

That may change though depending on ride height. Most cars I've seen running 14" springs without drop spindles are not low enough for my taste.

I was recomended the 14" springs when I first ordered them, but have recently seen Dave Z. begin to recomend 12" springs in some cases after some suspension changes elsewhere on those cars and testing he has done on several of his customers cars.

We'll see what happens. I'm fully confident in Dave and have been since day one. His customer service is second to none and the fact that he frequently hits up local tracks with his customers to test his suspension says a lot to me.

I think I now have Bkvette converted too :lol:

If you have some free time, check out this thread: http://www.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=51403

Makes my brain hurt, but TONS of good info on setting up a suspension properly.

[bkstang95]

Yeah, between you and reading that thread I am definitely converting to Team Z suspension. Dude knows how to make a car work!

[Walter]

Teamz shit works good on my car, 1.38 60' on drag radials.

[bkstang95]

Teamz shit works good on my car, 1.38 60' on drag radials.

What all did you get from TeamZ?

[03z06vette]

That thing should be nasty!!

[Walter]

What all did you get from TeamZ?

Double adj uppers, single adj lowers and anti-roll bar. I got spherical's in there too but they were from UPR. Im sure they are all the same tho.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got the rear end back and put in the car to get it moving. I've now got the car over at the new place. Two non-running, one turbo, one soon to be turbo mustang sitting in one garage :lol:

The brake kit came missing several pieces of hardware, some of which are specific to this kit. I'm going to give Wilwood a call and see if they can do anything for me, if not I'll be making my own bolts to work I guess.

I ended up using 3.27 gears.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1696.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1697.jpg

Up close shot of the 9" ends and bearings on the axles:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1698.jpg

Welds look awesome, big thanks goes to Rob and Chad at Rigid.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1700.jpg

It'll be coming back out to get painted and finish installing the brakes and brake lines. Motor will also be coming back out over the weekend, I'd like to go back and check all my torque specs.

[Gearhead]

I've now got the car over at the new place. Two non-running, one turbo, one soon to be turbo mustang sitting in one garage :lol:

wait... you have 2 turbo 'stangs now ?? I thought you got rid of the Black GT that had title issues ??

[dsmawd350]

its his new roomies, brandon. BKstang or something on here. the red 94-98 car with plated front end

[5.0calypso93lx]

Yea, I moved in with Bkvette on here with the 95'. It's no longer red with the scallops though, it's all black.

[bkstang95]

Shitz weak! Get your ass back out in the garage and pull that motor :lol:

[mustang8998]

Wait.....

You two living together, in the yuppie golf course house.......

What will people think?

[Walter]

Wait.....

You two living together, in the yuppie golf course house.......

What will people think?

Both wearing pink polo shirts with popped collars, blown out hair do's and sweatbands! :lol:

[BlazinEagle]

bunkbeds? Just kidding James

[dsmawd350]

riding around in their mustangs with their hands on eachother knee

[bkstang95]

Both wearing pink polo shirts with popped collars, blown out hair do's and sweatbands! :lol:

It's not pink, its salmon! :lol:

[5.0calypso93lx]

A few updates on the car. Had a few items arrive recently. I ran across a BG turbo hotside that he custom made for a 351w with a set of high ports. They were a customer return item and picked them up for a pretty good price:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1715.jpg

Kit looks to be of good quality except some of the merges for the T4 flange. I'm going to have it cleaned up a bit:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1716.jpg

My Trick Flow fuel rail kit showed up today also. Got it really cheap off of corral and I've been wanting the kit with black fuel rails, regulator and fittings for a while now:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1717.jpg

It's got these connectors that allow me to run braided lines down to the stock fuel lines for now:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1718.jpg

Got my R upper intake and sheetmetal valve covers in. They're actually off right now as I'm in the process of going back and retorquing the head bolts and getting the rocker arm studs and rockers setup. Tom got me hooked up with a Fluidyne radiator and picked up the IC off of 93snake on here.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1728.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1727.jpg

Snapped a pic of the current ride height. It's still to high for me right now, but it's also missing the complete hotside, turbo, belts, hoses, misc. brackets, intercooler piping, nose, bumper reinforcement and fluids. I'm hoping it comes down quite a bit from where it is now. Otherwise I think I'll have to go with a 12" spring rather than the 14" that's in it now.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1726.jpg

I'm going to start a tech thread for this problem, but I have no idea what the purpose is of these stupid power steering lines. All it does is just loop up and mount at the top of the core support. There is nothing else there. I don't see why I can't just ran a straight line from the rack to the pump. This car was like this since I got it and has never had a power steering cooler since I've owned it. It's preventing the intercooler from sitting flush up against the core support:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1730.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1731.jpg

[5.0calypso93lx]

The balancer is also coming back off. I literally broke the install tool trying to insall it. It's just too tight. I'm going to measure the crank snout and have the balancer machined. I used grease on the snout too.

[Jeff88coupe]

Looking good...that thing just might run soon. Most aftermarket balancers are on the tight side...to let the engine builder ream them out to the right size to match the crank snout. I think BES likes them on the tight side.....I broke a pulley puller getting mine off the last time I changed cams in my motor.

[bbfstanger]

that tubing is the p/s cooler
you can take it off and use a diff. cooler.
or if you dont plan long hauls you can leave it off altogether.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Looking good...that thing just might run soon. Most aftermarket balancers are on the tight side...to let the engine builder ream them out to the right size to match the crank snout. I think BES likes them on the tight side.....I broke a pulley puller getting mine off the last time I changed cams in my motor.

As close as it is, I'm still so far away :mad:

I called up Brian at BES and he said they actually press it on, so it has been on before. It just didn't feel right though and then I snapped the through bolt on the tool. I think the right way to do it is to pull it off, measure and have it machined.

I did mock up the headers and they are surprisingly close to fitting! The only thing is though is that the motor is not centered in the k member right now. When I do center it, it's going to move the passenger side header further down which is exactly what I don't want it to do. Either way, I think it's just a bit too close to the frame rail lip.

Funny thing is, I found out why my clutch and trans was so jacked up back when I had the car going. I was moving the clutch cable out of the way to put the upper on and the cable snapped in my hand. Junk UPR crap... That thing didn't even see 1k miles...

[NXcoupe]

Looking good! I never use those UPR cables. the steeda ones are ten times better and last a long time. So how did your engine get twisted? If it's close, what are you going to do to make the headers work?

[Metcalf Racing]

Must have got something off when they welded the new front clip on. You know pre paint

[Metcalf Racing]

I love seeing cars that can be fixed get fixed instead of scrapped. Fox bodies get salvage titles so easy. I'm glad this one got saved. I like calypso cars

[NXcoupe]

Yeah, me too on the calypso. What are you doing up so late, don't you have a fuel pump to go get tomorrow?

[Metcalf Racing]

Yeah, me too on the calypso. What are you doing up so late, don't you have a fuel pump to go get tomorrow?
I have no time for sleep. I work all day with my concrete business and all night a few nights a week at AK

[NXcoupe]

wow, and I thought I had it bad with 7 12's. Well get some rest, I'm still planning on coming down to see the King's digs in middletown when I get home.

[Metcalf Racing]

I think my cousin is shutting down his play shop so you may need to just come to White castle

[NXcoupe]

Oh man, well I'll just get in touch with you when I get home, I'm sure the king's got a hidewaway somewhere.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Looking good! I never use those UPR cables. the steeda ones are ten times better and last a long time. So how did your engine get twisted? If it's close, what are you going to do to make the headers work?

That's just how the engine sat when I dropped it in. I knew from the beginning after talking to Brian at BG that the headers and downpipe were going to need to be modified. The hotside is for a 351w with High ports, but the car has a 1" drop k member and ES motor mounts which drop it even more. The engine is sitting way down in the car.

The T4 flange on the passenger side header is going to have to be cut off and rotated upwards to be able to clear that frame rail.


Must have got something off when they welded the new front clip on. You know pre paint

?? I'm thinking you must have this car confused with another. I bought the car as a shell nearly 10 years ago, this car has never been wrecked.

[Metcalf Racing]

If you say so

[5.0calypso93lx]

If you say so

:lol: :rolleyes:

You can put this car on a laser frame rack if you're really that worried about it. Where do you come up with this stuff ?? :lol:

I know the whole story behind this car as Chris (plated) knew the previous owner wayyyyyy back when. Regardless, there really isn't much left that's stock. Except for the core support :lol: The k member bolted up just like the stocker that was removed.

[facemelter71]

Must have got something off when they welded the new front clip on. You know pre paint

Craig I think you are confused by the way Calypso is wording his post.He has to shift the engine in the K-member since he had to cut the Locator dowel's off of the new motor mounts. Had to do the same thing on my car.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Craig I think you are confused by the way Calypso is wording his post.He has to shift the engine in the K-member since he had to cut the Locator dowl's off of the new motor mounts. Had to do the same thing on my car.

Ahh you might be right.

[facemelter71]

Oh,I run 12" springs on the front of mine.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Back when I had my car actually running and driving :lol::flipoff: (just in case anyone wants to make a comment), I always had probelms with the transmission feeling tight and could never get the cltuch to permanently adjust correctly. I kept having to turn the firewall adjuster out because the trans would feel fine, then get tight again until I finally had no adjustment left. That's when the trans broke too lol. Well I found out why:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1743.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1744.jpg

I know it's kind of hard to tell but that's a UPR clutch cable and it snapped right there at the firewall when I was trying to move the cable out of the way to test fit a header.

I also was concerned that the motor was tilted towards the passenger side as I couldn't see a gap in the slot on the passenger side k member mount pad but I could see a large gap on the driver side. Turns out, the motor is almost dead nuts level and the design of the motor mounts themselves just made it look like it was tilted. The motor sits so low in the k member that both posts of the through studs on the motor mounts are at the very bottom of the k member mount pad slots:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1745.jpg

Passenger side:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1746.jpg

Driver side:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1747.jpg

Also, thanks goes to Walter for hooking up the Tial MVR 44mm wastegate. Well, I guess I can actually thank the first company he bought this from for taking forever and him having to order another then having this one show up after he placed a second order. :lol:

Not much progress other than that. I've decided to swap out this drop k member for a stock height piece. This one just puts the motor way too low and everything is hitting everywhere with the hotside. I thought it was just the passenger side that was going to be an issue but the driver side header is tanking into the sway bar mount as well.

[Walter]

Get that thing together so I can wax!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Get that thing together so I can wax!

I've still got quite a ways to go! I still need to buy the turbo and injectors and a few other misc. things.

[bkstang95]

He's procrastinating again so he doesn't get waxed by errybody! hahaha

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got a little time to work on the car today in this nice weather.

I had 9" ends welded on to the 8.8 a while ago and the Por15 had to be ground off to weld. I was able to repaint the rear end today and get the shocks in.

Here's a closeup of the killer welds by Rob at Rigid. VERY happy with the work up there:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1767.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1769.jpg

Got the axle tubes painted and taped off the bearings and got the ends painted. It's hard for this Por15 to stick to smooth surfaces like on these Moser ends so it's layed on pretty thick:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1770.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1771.jpg

This is the first chance I've gotten to get some pics of the Team Z control arms. They're really nice pieces. They're not adjusted at all right now, I've just got them at stock arm length:

Lowers:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1772.jpg

Uppers:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1773.jpg

Got the new shocks bolted up:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1774.jpg

And here's the rear rotors of the Wilwood brake kit. They're vented 12.19" two piece rotors with aluminum hats. I wanted to stick with street oriented brakes and these rotors are surprisingly light with the aluminum hats. I bought the kit new but mounted up and the seller didn't include all of the hardware so I need to order a hardware kit before I can get everything mounted up.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1775.jpg

[Rick93coupe]

Lookin good!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got the headers mocked up to see how well they fit. On the passenger side, the header flange is sitting above the top of the head and won't allow the valve cover to be installed. Looks like I'll have to clearance that so I can get the valve cover bolted down. Can't really tell in these pics but it's a good 1/8" above the top of the edge of the head:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1851.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1852.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1853.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1854.jpg

The driver side I can't even get mounted up. The outside most header tube is hitting the stock prop valve and isn't allowing me to even get the back of the header aligned to get a bolt in the rear of the flange:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1855.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1856.jpg

I removed the power steering "cooler" from the core support and just looped the drain back into the rack using the stock drain line. This will give me some more room up front to mount the intercooler and clean up the lines around where the crossover will be:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1857.jpg

I got the T bolts from Currie that I ordered in and got the axle flanges installed:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1859.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1858.jpg

Got the rear brakes installed. Didn't need to use any shims, it was dead nuts on the first time:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1860.jpg

I'm going to run the brake lines tomorrow and touch up the rear axle paint a little bit with some more Por-15.

[dsmawd350]

james bring the headers out and i can take some material off the top off the flange on the mill and keep it looking nice

[5.0calypso93lx]

james bring the headers out and i can take some material off the top off the flange on the mill and keep it looking nice

Any measurements you want me to take specifically?

[dsmawd350]

yea how much you want taken off LOL

[5.0calypso93lx]

Did some really rough mocking up of the turbo and dp today. I'm just happy it's going to work. In fact everything fits great. I was concerned I wasn't going to have enough room in the inner fender and was going to have to hack the car up.

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1873.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1874.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1875.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1876.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1877.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1878.jpg



I need to reclock the turbo. The dp is awfully tight around the shock tower and firewall. I need to look into it more but I believe it should be ok if it's wrapped? When I first saw where it had to go I was like, man there's no way this is gonna fit. Voila!!

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got the MM prop valve delete "kit" installed. It's basically just two fittings to thread each brake line into. Worked fine with the 3-2 kit I already have on the car:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1893.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1894.jpg

The driver header now clears fine. Now it's also hitting the bottom of the valve cover though :(

It's out of my hands at this point, going to have the fab guy clearance what needs to be clearance to get them fitting properly. It very easily could be the ebay valve covers, although they fit great everywhere else.

Got the turbo mounted up and attempted to clock it. Still need to get the drain closer to vertical. It's probably at a 45 degree angle now to be vertical with the ground:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1890.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1891.jpg

[BlazinEagle]

looks good James. Keep up the progress!

[jack90gt]

Looks great man but that does look like a tight fit with the downpipe.....

[5.0calypso93lx]

Thanks Rodney. Does your buddy still want these keys?

And yes, it is very tight. It will be wrapped, but I'm not sure at this point if it's going to be an issue or not.

[Walter]

100 roll?

[5.0calypso93lx]

Got the T-56 picked up tonight. It's a nice setup. HPM crossmember, Dynotech shortened driveshaft and I also had an extra T-56 Steeda Tri Ax shifter laying in the garage:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1897.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1898.jpg

[Maximus]

Nice! How much did that set you back>?

[bkstang95]

Sweet! One more gear for you to miss as I'm dragging you down the highway! :lol:

But seriously though, maybe the 7th tranny will actually stay put for a little bit?! haha

[5.0calypso93lx]

Nice! How much did that set you back>?

I think I did ok on it. After selling the 3550 trans and trading the seller of the T-56 my old FRPP alum driveshaft, KC clutch and crossmember and cash, I didn't have too terribly much out of pocket. Plus he was just down in Georgetown, KY so we met up in Crittenden. He was asking $2500 for the setup on corral.

[5.0calypso93lx]

Sweet! One more gear for you to miss as I'm dragging you down the highway! :lol:

But seriously though, maybe the 7th tranny will actually stay put for a little bit?! haha

LOL, in what car?? :lol:

This one is staying. It's the trans I've wanted from the beginning and this one is a bit more enticing as it's a bolt in unlike the other 3 I've had :o

[bkstang95]

The car will be fired up by next week. :flipoff:

[5.0calypso93lx]

The car will be fired up by next week. :flipoff:

I'll believe it when I see it. I've heard "it should be ready to fire" for too long :lol: :flipoff:

[bkstang95]

Yeah, but then got in another one of my "fuck that car" phases that lasted a month until last weekend hahaha

[5.0calypso93lx]

Didn't get a whole lot done. Dicked around with the TB cable and cleaned up the coilpacks were the only real work. Did get a pick of the EPM in and how tight the clearance is on the DP:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1966.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1967.jpg
http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1965.jpg

heat sink truck coil packs:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1964.jpg

EPM in:

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq188/bad306lx/IMG_1961.jpg

[JIMS SVT]

Get the tranny and crossmember in there and that dp may change some.

[jack90gt]

Wow hats a tight fit...I have one question though ....What is up with the coil packs and the dist???

[5.0calypso93lx]

Get the tranny and crossmember in there and that dp may change some.

I thought of this too, and pushed the motor forward like it would be if the trans was in there and the firewall clearance is there but doesn't affect how tight it is on the valve cover.