Project COBRA"33

[Yknot]

Hi, I'm new to this site, although I have been a watcher for some time. The information and post seem to be orderly so I joined. I would like to thank the staff for putting on such an nice and informative site, and the member for being there when needed, hopefully when I need help one will come to my aid as well.

I have been working on ProjectCOBRA"33 for a little over a year now. It's way different from ypour typical project on this site, but it is ALL FORD. I started with an all steel 1933 Ford sedan and completely dis-assembled it, keeping only the body and a few major pieces. The frame is new and fabricated by myslf (1-1/2" x 6" chanel from ASG, then boxed) . Many hours have already been put into the project, and as of this writing, the frame is finished and painted, with ,most major pieces attached. It utilizes a Heidts IFS Super Ride front end and a 4-bar triangleated rear set-up with a polish Winter quick change running 4.12 gears, Willood takes on all the brake duties for the car. The body is being modified and modern parts are being added. The engine of choise was the 03-04 Cobra Terminator power plant, so I ordered on brand new, a 04 model and started from there. To date the fuel system ahas been totally re-vamped using Aeromotive fuel rails, 42lb/hr injectors, Converted to a Return style system, with all Aeromotive products. I also used a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump to aggment the fuel capacity while at WOT and on N2O. The super charger has been both polished and ports at Steigmyers, and the bosst is set at 15-16psi. We have Blue Ford racing valve covers and chrome coil covers, BBK long tube headers, Accufab polished intake and throttle plate, Moto Blue dual bearing pullies and super charger pully, Power house starter, Moroso oil Pan, with Canton windage screen, Energy suspension motor mounts, a PA SFI flex plate and a built 4R75W transmission, with modified Torque converter.
The whole car's funtions are kept on a Innovate Motorsports data logger which includes 8-EGT sensore, 2-cylinder head temp sensors, 4-liquid temp sensors, 5-pressure sensors, 2-wide ban O2 sensors and a travel sensor. Once there Open Tune is released, that will join the rest of the pieces. The car is heavy into electronics and run a Keene Bell Boost-A-coil, and Boost-A-pump, Telorvek cumputer mid-panel, a new Ford 2005 Mach 1 modified EEC, SCT Live wire tuner, Ron Francis wiring panel, Cold fussion EGT Safety Switches, Master Mind Nitrous controller, NOS Cobra Plate system with twin intercooler spray bars, dual purge kits and dual 15lb bottles. There is also a full stage II Snow Performance Water/Mythenol injection system to keep detination to a minimum during WOT and Nitrous use. Every part on the car is new, except the original body and doors. Our lates efforts have added Bear Claw latches to booth doors, with Poppers and electric locks and door solenoides. We are also currently installing the power window kits as well as a full 10 point roll bar made from 1-3/4" 0.120 wall DOM that will satisfy NHRA tech standard down to 8.50 seconds, more then enough for the car. The car will serve it's first year or so on the car show circuit, then the focus will change to the drag strip and various street events. I'm very confident we will get 600hp from the engine, and up to 300hp in addition from the nitrous and water injection, who knows we might press it beyound that figure?
I know this project is a little un-orthodox for the site, but it's 100% FORD, in an arena where the Chevy small block gets way to much hang time, plus my engine transmission combo is pure FORD performance much like many of your members are running. I feel in love with the 4.6L Modular motor, I was up and untill this project a Chevy fan, and fully intended to install a big block or a LS2-3 Small block Chevy. But after reading the sfecifications on the Terminator engine, and how much power it was capabile of producing on a consistant and durabile basis, I wanted nothing but Ford Modular power in my project, obviously I could have chossen any form of power plant, but it was the Ford mod motor that caught my eye, and hart. I'm looking forward to meeting fellow Ford members and sharing and learning from ther and mine experiances. Dave.

If you would like to follow the ProjectCOBRA"33 build up, just tune into
www.proweldperformanceparts.com and go to the COBRA"33 link.

[JonS]

That is a really cool project. Are you local to the Cincy area?

[kennebellcobra]

Sounds like a cool project :bigthumb I also have to say..:postpix::lol:

[PKFIRE]

Amazing.. The pictures on the site and details to what is involved in bringing life back into your Old Ford.

Keep up the good work!

[Yknot]

First thanks everyone for the warm words and welcome. Yes I live in the Burlington, KY area but have my shop (85' x 45') a little further away where the neighbors don't quite care so much, It's a 30 min drive every time I want to go to the shop. I didn't post any pictures and take up any server space because my site has so many it would be pointless. The project and car are both "REAL", and the last time I worked on it, was 01-12-08, where I smashed my left hand and about knocked myself out when the 4' lever on the tube notcher didn't quite stay put, and hit me in the head. Oh, well I did manage to get the middle roll bar bent and tach-ed in along with the front and rear halo bars.
Thanks again for all the nice post and check in every once in awhile to see what's happening. I'll add pictures as things progress.

[Mustard]

thats going to be one sick street rod

[kennebellcobra]

I was in a hurry and did'nt notice the pics on your site:dummy: Looks like you have had some awesome projects in the past too:drool:

[Yknot]

Up-Date:

I haven't been getting the time I would like to work on Project Cobra'33, I have just been to busy building engines and heads, but I will bring you up to speed.
We have the roll cage installed, it is basically a front middle and rear hoop with tie bars on top and a under the dash bar. I ran out of space so I had to use the very back of the cage to mount some important items. The battery is mounted on the passenger side of the rear hoop just above the floor, some 8" high, I needed to leave room for a hidden door to open. I welded in a "Shelf" that held the battery, bass speak enclosure and on the drivers side a methanol tank. The rear hoop bars will also support a 15LB nitrous tank one on each side. I have some very cool billet aluminum brackets that make bottle removal a snap, and look great doing it. Under my "Shelf" I have room for a few items that don't need much tuning, like the Kenny Bell adjust-a-boost and the adjust-a-spark boxes, the two Sprawl fan controllers, and a CD changer and XM radio enclosure. The hidden spot under the floor will house all the car electronics and computers. I set it up so these area will be the junction spot for all engine/transmission/chassis electronics. There are over 14-12 space terminal strips that attach all the incoming and out going wires for the chassis. The engine and trany are served by a Tolorvek panel that has roughly 112 wires, this is where all the engine and trany control happens to terminate. The Tolorvek panel allows you to terminate these wires to there panel then it connects to the Ford Computer via the 106 pin connector. It is this panel that provides all the voltage for the fuel pump, injectors, IAC, and ignition coils. It's a really cool piece that makes EFI cars a simple task to wire up and use factory control. For that I also bought a brand new 2005 Mach 1 ECM, I had to go with the Mach 1 for the automatic transmission control, and then have it modified for the 4.6L DOHC with supercharger (Terminator engine). While there they also re flashed it for the combination I am running. Any how, this area under the rear floor is circuit city. The only other area I have for mounting item is the area under the rear seat, because of the layout, this area is pretty big and in here will go the two 1500W amps, the cars remote operations, Nitrous controllers, heaters, etc., the Fuse Panel, Data recorder hardware, and several other control boxes.
With the roll cage basically finish except for final welding, we started on the dash and it's sub areas. To get room for the defrost duct work, we are sectioning the dash and adding 2 inches to it width, across the area where the front windshield would be. while it sound simple, it isn't. I purchased the smaller version AC from Vintage Air, but it still takes up most of the behind the dash room. I supported the main unit under the dash and to the passenger side, it's supported by the firewall and the cage. Because I want to keep and have functional, the cowl vent, all this is very tight. We are also constructing a center consul, this will house the navigation radio, the Vintage Air control and the 5-switch panel we had made to look like the Vintage Air control panel. For gages we are using Dakota Digital stuff, hence The billet them. Besides the necessary stuff there will be a SCT Live Wire controller and a Innovate Motor sports display for engine functions, and a switch to operate the twin cut-outs. Over-head we are also making a consul that will fit between the two back bars, this will house the rear view mirror and the over head display and two antennas.
I have up-dated the site to current conditions, and you might notice the car is now on the 4-post lift not the 2-post anymore. I needed the room and access to the underneath area so we moved it over. The frame has been almost finished, I have most of the plumbing done, or at least on those systems that are finished, the inter cooler and engine cooling systems are not complete so they are not plumbed. We did get the 3-qt Accusump mounted and plumbed in to the oil system, it looks great and is mounted under the drivers side running board. The entire engine oil system is none in An-12 hose and fittings, while tuff to work with and hide, it is more then addict for the job. I also made to heat Shields, one for the oil cooler to protect it from the exhaust, and the other for the Transmission cooler and inter-cooler water cooler also to protect them from the hot exhaust heat. They look really cool and should do a great job. The 2-O2 sensor bungs that came on the headers would not work on this project, mainly because the transmission would interfere, so I plugged them up and had to drill and weld in 4 new ones, 2-for the computer and 2- for the Innovate motor sports wide band o2 sensors. While I was at it, I also drilled and welded in 4-more exhaust gas temperature (EGT) bungs for the Innovate system, that make all 8 cylinders now recorded for temps. The exhaust worked out great, it's sturdy, tucked up tight and exits the rear very nicely. The headers dump into collectors then go to a cut-out, there they can keep going straight out the back or if the electric cut-outs are open, they can exit to the side of the car, just under the rear most part of the running board. I ordered Chevy SSR exhaust tips in stainless and they look great, as soon as my 2-2-1/2" SS 45° bends get in, I can finish that system up. The entire exhaust system is stainless steel and was purchased from Borla, they make some nice stuff. I also went thru the frame and replaced all the working hardware with the final polished SS hardware, I still have to wrap many of the braided hoses and put on a few separators. One area that will be awkward will be the the engine cooling system. As you know the thermostat is not attached to the engine, and the way the radiator and the engine are set-up it will be a hand full to get everything plumbed up and looking nice. The brake system is complete less the bias adjuster and brake pressure gages that go inside the car. When that day does come, the one where we get to start the engine it will be a day of apprehension and relief. This engine has never been run, so I'll take a oil tank and pressurize the oil system to lubricate the engine generously before start-up, it would be nice if that would happen this year......something tells me it won't. Till then keep watching.