supercharger/turbo/nitrous ? Can't decide.

[denial]

With my setup, which would be best in everyones opinion.

306 cu.
GT40p heads
motorsport headers
pro products upper/lower intake
75mm throttle body
E303 cam
mac cold air
19# injectors
msd ignition
msd coil
ac/smog pump removed with eliminator brackets
world class t5 w/king cobra clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing
adjustable fuel reg.
mac h-pipe w/ flowmasters
373 8.8 gear

[Maximus]

Put a 255 in tank pump in and spray the bitch:cool1:

[ibstrokin]

Put a stroked windsor in it,run low 11's and drive it anywhere.

[Maximus]

Put a stroked windsor in it,run low 11's and drive it anywhere.

He said with his setup...306:HYF:

:lol: :bigthumb

[denial]

u know thats something i need to check on, im not exactly sure what pump is in it craig.

[ibstrokin]

He said with his setup...306:HYF:

:lol: :bigthumb

I understood what he said, I then gave him my opinion. Thanks for your concern though.:flipoff:

[Maximus]

"Look Bitch", a stroked windsor combo should be nettin the guy more than 11's.:HYF:

[Silver Bullet]

Back to the poor guys question, That all depends on the amount of $$$ you want to spend..... Nitrous, cheapest, IMO blower is the Middle of the road, Turbo, more expensive and harder to install....

[denial]

turbo is the middle priced one i thought. But, of course nitrous is cheaper, but which is more reliable.

[PaulFiveOh]

Supercharger - Belts Break

Nitrous - Expensive to fill up

Turbo - Your whole engine breaks peice by peice but it sure is hella fast!

[aperacer]

i like the supercharged way... but mine was build from the factory that way... a lot less trouble than some of aftermarket set ups.

[tmotorsports]

My combo is explorer GT40P motor completely stock
anderson B21 cam
Complete good fuel system
Built C4
with a MPGT45R turbo which may be a little big 70MM would probably do better
But it is is a 3300# fairmont and will run 10.80's -90's I know

bwest time so far at world ford challenge was
11.43 ET
121 MPH
1.92 60 FT
on M/T drag radials

I have ran nitrous for years and like it and have went fast with it but had alot more motor.had a vortech S trim for 2 days HATED IT!!! will never have another one. the only way I will have a supercharged car again is if I buy it that way or if it is a 03-04 cobra or lightning or harley truck.

[Jeff88coupe]

What is the compression ratio of your 306 with those P heads? That will be a factor in what you can run as a power adder. I went high 10's on a 200 shot on my old stock shortblock gt40p head combo. I say spray it.

[IWRBB]

turbo is the middle priced one i thought. But, of course nitrous is cheaper, but which is more reliable.

A nice big turbo all by itself can cost as much as some s/c setups.

My take-
Nitrous: Cheap, effective, lightweight, easy to install. But, it's inconsistant (unless you spend big money on progressive controllers/heaters/etc which eliminates the cheap part of nitrous), bottles run out, and you are carrying a bomb in the trunk.

Blower: Affordable, installs aren't too tough. If you are looking at centrifugals, you'll never seen max boost until you have to shift. On the other hand, a positive displacement blower will give you full booost anywhere. You don't have to refill your blower every week like a bottle. Belt life and belt slip are major issues with blowers, especially with a 6 rib pulley setup. The blowers take 50-75 HP to turn once you get a big blower spun hard. This leads to running the belt really tight, which isn't good for any bearings attached to the belt system. I have a 10 rib setup on my Cobra, it has very little dust, long belt life and normal belt tension.

Turbo: Expensive, unless you fab it yourself. Turbos have lag, compared to nitrous or a PD blower. They are tough to launch hard with a stickshift compared to an auto. You cannot build boost on the line with a stick like you can with an auto. You'll make more power with turbos than a blower (lb for lb of boost), and it's easier on the crank/bearings. You also will see full boost well before redline, and hold it all the way to redline. Selecting the correct size and trim turbo is critical to getting the best performance. Unrestricted exhaust is also very important for best performance.

[dedpedal]

A nice big turbo all by itself can cost as much as some s/c setups.

My take-
Nitrous: Cheap, effective, lightweight, easy to install. But, it's inconsistant (unless you spend big money on progressive controllers/heaters/etc which eliminates the cheap part of nitrous), bottles run out, and you are carrying a bomb in the trunk.

Blower: Affordable, installs aren't too tough. If you are looking at centrifugals, you'll never seen max boost until you have to shift. On the other hand, a positive displacement blower will give you full booost anywhere. You don't have to refill your blower every week like a bottle. Belt life and belt slip are major issues with blowers, especially with a 6 rib pulley setup. The blowers take 50-75 HP to turn once you get a big blower spun hard. This leads to running the belt really tight, which isn't good for any bearings attached to the belt system. I have a 10 rib setup on my Cobra, it has very little dust, long belt life and normal belt tension.

Turbo: Expensive, unless you fab it yourself. Turbos have lag, compared to nitrous or a PD blower. They are tough to launch hard with a stickshift compared to an auto. You cannot build boost on the line with a stick like you can with an auto. You'll make more power with turbos than a blower (lb for lb of boost), and it's easier on the crank/bearings. You also will see full boost well before redline, and hold it all the way to redline. Selecting the correct size and trim turbo is critical to getting the best performance. Unrestricted exhaust is also very important for best performance.

I agree with most of the turbo comment except building boost on the line. A simple 2 step will allow full boost to launch hard and powershifting will keep the motor in boost all the way down the track.

[ibstrokin]

My s-trim is very reliable,works like a champ. As always, it depends on what you want your car to do. The nice thing about n20 is that your car drives normal, very streetable,and reliable, and when you want more power you hit a button. With blower/turbo the power is on demand,and there is much more room for failure on a daily basis.

How often do you drive your car? How streetable do you want your car to be? There are alot of other serious factors, roll bars, fuel system,beefing you tranny,clutch,rearend. It's very expensive to make a fast car reliable.

All i'm saying is look at speed/power from multiple angles, be honest with yourself about your expectations.

All that being said, you can get a novi 1000 new from jeg's for 16/1700$. it will support 500 hp, and should be a reliable unit. You will still need inj/pump/ma meter.

[IWRBB]

I agree with most of the turbo comment except building boost on the line. A simple 2 step will allow full boost to launch hard and powershifting will keep the motor in boost all the way down the track.

You are right, I wasn't thinking about the older style ignitions where you can cut spark.

You can't do that on the new Mustangs w/o converting to something like the MSD DIS or a distributor conversion. You can do a 2 step with the EEC-V, but it cuts fuel :(

As far as keeping boost and lag, I was referring to lag driving it around on the street. I agree that at the track it's not an issue.

[black90lx]

just spray it ;)

[95redstang]

turbo is the middle priced one i thought. But, of course nitrous is cheaper, but which is more reliable.

With everybody on here having issues with their turbo set ups why go in that direction? I have seen very few say that they are not having problems with their s/c or nitrous set ups...

[347sc]

The problem with each setup is your right foot. Keep it planted and not use your head you will break every combo you come up with.

Easy way to go is to spray it.

I broke two Vortechs. The problems I had with my turbo car was not due to the turbo. It had a couple electrical gremlins and a 3rd to 2nd miss shift didnt help the rod the let go too much.

I drove every combo I had every day and driveablity was not an issue.

[denial]

thx for all your replies guys. I'll just go the nitrous route it looks like. I have ran em all before and of course my most reliable turbo car was my grand national of course :). On the other hand, i have had mustangs with nitrous and have actually been quite lucky. I have only used the dry kits also. Maybe a 150 dry shot kit will do the trick. I looking for about 11.50's - 11.90's out of the car. Right now my guess is the car is 12.50-12.80 car. I'm also not sure what the compression ratio is right now as well. I gotta make a few phone calls to check on that.

['92Stang]

Sounds like a good setup. Goodluck:bigthumb

[denial]

BBK 1527 86-95 5.0L Mustang 155 lph In-Tank Fuel Pump


86-95 5.0L Mustang
155 lph In-Tank Fuel Pump

Direct replacements for the stock unit. Good for applications with stock to over 500 HP and are great for all performance levels.

This is the pump in it now, good enough?

[strokercobra]

Sounds like a good setup. Goodluck:bigthumb

:agree: I would go alittle bigger on the pump for safety's sake. Nitrous option is a good choice considering the prices at the pumps now days. Only use it when you need it saves the petro. Can't turn off a blower or turbo.

[347sc]

My turbo car got really good mpg for something that ran low 11s. 26mpg on the highway and almost 20 around town.

[Rick93coupe]

Stick with Nitrous, turbo cars are fun but they sure as hell aren't cheap. After seeing the way the 03 cobras run, I don't think that would be a bad option for a street car. Then again, if I don't end up liking the turbo route, I'm going to build the biggest dart block 4.125" stroker I can find.

[Jeff88coupe]

I would step up to a 255 high pressure pump to be safe. I prefer wet kits...NX single nozzle or efi plate kits even better.

[Timido]

My 408 powerglide with a little hit of nitrous every once in a while has been Very reliable. 3 years with the combo and the engine and trans were both used when I bought them. I hurt the trans once. All buy a handfull of the passes are 9 and 10 sec passes.