Nitrous and Ignition Retardation - A Question.

[PaulFiveOh]

Possibly another stupid question but:

1) Is Ignition retardation required when running 125 shot of nitrous?

2) If it is, how many degrees does it need to be retarded?

3) What tell my ignition system to retard it self once the nitrous system is armed? (And how do I set the retardation)


and

4) Do I need to use colder plugs at the track? (where I plan to spray every pass).

5) If I only want to use nitrous RARELY on the street, is it safe to use standard temp plugs?



Thanks guys for your help.

-Paul

[theyallslow]

1 and 2. somthing like 2 degrees for ever 50 shot, so for a 150...would be a 6.
3. nothing you will have to do it by hand, or get msd nitrous retard kit.
4. yes, but no crazy plugs. no platium or things like that. they can make hot spots.
5. that is up to you. if you hear somthing form the engine then no.

[PaulFiveOh]

Thanks for the input.

Any one else have some thoughts on the subject?

[conley1000000]

1. Absolutly unless you want to build a new short block.
2. 1 degree of timing for every 25 increment...that should be safe enough
3. Unless you buy an aftermarket piece, or get a chip burnt, then you'll have to retard it by hand before you race...
4. With 75 shot or higher, colder plugs are a +, 125 or higher there a must! Get a set of COPPER plugs, one step colder under a 150 shot, that should be safe enough to combat detonation...
5. Its fine to leave in the one step colder plugs and run them on the street, it will be fine and you wont notice that much of a difference...

Heres a plug chart for a 5.0 for ya

5.0
Stock E7 heads:
AUTOLITE
stock--stock 25 (5) [14m, .460 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
1 step colder--24 (4) [14m, .460 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
2 step colder--23 (3) [14m, .460 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
-----AR133 (3) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----AR132 (2) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----AR131 (1) [*recessed tip, racing plug]

NGK
stock--(UR45) 6945 (Heat Range - 4) [14m, .460 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
1 step colder--(UR55) 2248 (5) [14m, .460 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
2 step colder--(UR6) 7773 (6) [14m, .460 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
-----(R5673-8) 3249 (8) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----(R5673-9) 3442 (9) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----(R5673-10) 4050 (10) [*recessed tip, racing plug]


GT40 Heads:
AUTOLITE
stock--765 (Heat Range - 5) [14mm, .708 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
1 step colder--764 (4) [14mm, .708 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
2 step colder--2543 (3) [14mm, .708 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
-----AR473 (3) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----AR472 (2) [*recessed tip, racing plug]

NGK
stock--(TR4) 3754 (Heat Range - 4) [14mm, .708 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
1 step colder--(TR55) 3951 (5) [14mm, .708 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
2 step colder--(TR6) 4177 (6) [14mm, .708 Reach, 5/8" Hex]
-----(B8EFS) 1049 (8) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----(B9EFS) 1085 (9) [*recessed tip, racing plug]

TFS, Edelbrock, and AFR Heads:
[14mm, 3/4" Reach, 5/8" Hex, gasket seat]
AUTOLITE
1 step colder--3924 (4) [*recommended starting point]
2 step colder--3923 (3)
-----AR3933 (3) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----AR3932 (2) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----AR3931 (1) [*recessed tip, racing plug]

NGK
1 step colder--(FR5) 3686 (5) [*recommended starting point]
2 step colder--(BKR6EY) 3696 (6)
-----(R5671A-8) 4554 (8) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----(R5671A-9) 5238 (9) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----(R5671A-10) 5820 (10) [*recessed tip, racing plug]

MOTORCRAFT
1 step colder--AWSF22C
2 step colder--AWSF32C


I'm not for sure what you would gap yours at, in my 4.6 I gapped my autolites (one step colder) to .36 i believe...

Heres a web site with alot of info on Dry Nitrous...
http://www.drynitrous.com/index.html

Hope this helped a bit

[PaulFiveOh]

That was a huge help.

Thanks alot!

Can some one post up a link to a product that would retard it automatically. Thanks

-Paul

[conley1000000]

That was a huge help.

Thanks alot!

Can some one post up a link to a product that would retard it automatically. Thanks

-Paul

IMHO Id go with a DYNO tune with an SCT chip... then you just turn a button and everything is ready to go, then turn it back when you done...

[PaulFiveOh]

IMHO Id go with a DYNO tune with an SCT chip... then you just turn a button and everything is ready to go, then turn it back when you done...

That sounds like the best option to me.

Probably not the cheapest way to do it, but it sounds like the safest way.

Modular Depot......here I come haha